Saihō-ji Temple, popularly known as Kokedera, or the Moss Temple, is famous for its grounds carpeted in beautiful green moss. The soft, velvety landscape creates the impression of a lush green carpet, giving the temple a tranquil and almost otherworldly atmosphere.
The temple garden consists of two distinct styles: a dry landscape garden created by the renowned Zen Buddhist monk and master garden designer Musō Soseki, and a pond-centered strolling garden featuring moss-covered grounds and a picturesque pond.
Both gardens are designated Places of Special Scenic Beauty and Historic Sites by the Japanese government. Saihō-ji is also part of the UNESCO World Heritage property known as the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.
Saihō-ji influenced the design of two of Kyoto’s most famous temples: Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, and Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion.
In 1382, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, visited Saihō-ji. Wearing Buddhist robes, he reportedly spent the night meditating in the Zen hall. He returned several times and later established Kinkaku-ji in 1397, using Saihō-ji as a model.
Saihō-ji was destroyed by fire in 1469 during the Ōnin War, a major conflict that devastated Kyoto. Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the eighth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, subsequently had the Zen hall rebuilt and visited the temple several times.
In 1490, Yoshimasa established Ginkaku-ji, drawing inspiration from both Saihō-ji and Kinkaku-ji. These historical connections make Saihō-ji an important place for understanding the development of Japanese garden design and Zen-inspired aesthetics.
Today, the thick, green moss covering the grounds is the temple’s defining feature. However, the garden did not look as it does now during Musō Soseki’s time. Although more than 100 species of moss can be found around the pond, the transformation into the lush moss garden seen today is believed to have occurred in the late Edo period (1603–1868).
At the heart of the lower garden lies Ōgonchi, or the Golden Pond, also known as Shinji-ike because its outline resembles the Japanese character for “heart” (心). Surrounded by trees and moss, the pond forms the centerpiece of the strolling garden.
Three islands rise from the water: Asahigashima, Yūhigashima, and Nagashima, also known as Kasumijima. The smaller islands were traditionally decorated with white sand and planted with pine trees.
On the eastern side of the garden stand the main hall, known as Sairaido, the study hall, and a three-story sutra repository pagoda, adding architectural interest to the natural scenery.
A karesansui, or Japanese dry landscape garden, represents mountains, water, and natural scenery without using an actual pond or flowing water. Instead, rocks, gravel, and sand are arranged to evoke the forms and spirit of nature. Before this style developed, Japanese gardens were generally centered on ponds.
In 1339, Musō Soseki created a Zen garden at Saihō-ji using carefully arranged stones to express Buddhist ideas through the landscape. This innovative approach is regarded as a foundational development in the history of Japanese dry landscape gardens.
Musō Soseki is considered one of the greatest garden designers in world history. His work helped shape Japanese aesthetic ideals associated with wabi (beauty in simplicity and imperfection), sabi (the beauty of age and patina), and yūgen (subtle, profound beauty).
The Saihō-ji garden covers approximately 35,000 square meters and makes imaginative use of the natural hillside. It is arranged on two levels, creating a three-dimensional landscape that combines water, stone, trees, and moss.
The lower garden lies at the foot of the hill and is centered on Ōgonchi, the Golden Pond. Designed as a pond-centered strolling garden, it invites visitors to appreciate the changing scenery as they move through the grounds.
The pond, wooded surroundings, and extensive moss cover create a peaceful atmosphere that changes with the seasons and the light.
The upper garden on the hillside contains the ancient dry landscape garden attributed to Musō Soseki. Its carefully arranged monumental rocks represent natural features such as mountains and waterfalls, expressing the spirit of Zen through a landscape without flowing water.
A Zen hall called Shitō-an once stood on the mountainside. A path led farther up the hill to a resting place near the summit, where visitors could enjoy views toward the Katsura River area.
According to tradition, the site of Saihō-ji was once the location of a villa belonging to Prince Shōtoku, the son of Emperor Yōmei, around the 6th or 7th century. A statue of Amida Buddha said to have been made by Prince Shōtoku was reportedly enshrined there.
In 731, the Buddhist monk Gyōki is said to have transformed the villa into a temple with the support of Emperor Shōmu.
After a period of decline, the temple was revived in 1339 when a senior official of the Muromachi shogunate invited Musō Soseki, who was renowned both as a Zen monk and as a garden designer, to restore it.
The temple garden was first opened to the general public in 1928, and the main hall was rebuilt in 1969.
Since 1977, however, Saihō-ji has no longer offered ordinary garden-only sightseeing visits. Visitors are required to make an advance reservation and participate in a religious activity, such as listening to Buddhist sutra chanting in the main hall or practicing sutra transcription.
This approach reflects the temple’s emphasis on spiritual practice rather than sightseeing alone. Visitors should arrange their visit in advance and check the temple’s official information for current reservation procedures and requirements.
Shōnantei is a historic tea house within the garden. It is traditionally said to have been built during Musō Soseki’s time and later fallen into disrepair before being restored during the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568–1600) by Sen Shōan, the second son of Sen no Rikyū, the influential tea master credited with refining the Japanese tea ceremony.
The tea house is also known for its connection to the late Edo period. The statesman Iwakura Tomomi is said to have taken refuge here during a period of political turmoil.
Shōnantei is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Two other tea houses, Shoan-dō and Tanbokutei, can also be found within the garden grounds.
Advance application is required to visit the shrine (specified at the time of application)
Designate the day of visitation by return postcard application or online application.
3,000 yen for the blessing fee
Kyoto Stn. → Kyoto Bus “Koke-dera/Suzumushiji” stop → Approx. 3 min. walk
JR Saga-Arashiyama Station → Approx. 10 min. by cab