Nonomiya Shrine is a historic Shinto shrine nestled within the famous Bamboo Grove of Arashiyama and Sagano in Kyoto. It is dedicated to deities associated with academic success, romantic relationships, safe childbirth, and fertility, making it a popular destination for visitors seeking good fortune in love and family life.
The shrine is also associated with The Tale of Genji, the celebrated literary masterpiece written by Murasaki Shikibu around the year 1000. In the chapter titled “Sakaki,” Nonomiya serves as the setting for a poignant encounter between the story’s central character, Hikaru Genji, and Lady Rokujo. This literary connection adds a romantic and nostalgic atmosphere to the shrine.
Among its distinctive features are the Kuroki Torii, a rare torii gate made from unstripped wood with its bark intact, and a beautiful moss garden that evokes the passage of centuries.
For approximately 660 years in ancient Japan, a special system sent a Saiō—an unmarried imperial princess or female member of the imperial family selected to serve the gods—from the capital to Ise Grand Shrine whenever a new emperor ascended the throne.
Before departing for Ise, the Saiō spent one year in purification at a temporary residence known as Nonomiya. A suitably peaceful and sacred location in Sagano was selected for each residence, where the princess prepared herself to serve the deities on behalf of the emperor.
Traditionally, each Nonomiya residence was dismantled after the Saiō’s service. The sacred enclosure was distinguished by a rare Kuroki Torii, made from an oak tree trunk with its bark still attached, and a fence called Ko-shibagaki, constructed from the branches of kuromoji, a deciduous shrub in the camphor family. The Kuroki Torii is regarded as one of Japan’s oldest forms of torii gate.
The Saiō system came to an end during the reign of Emperor Go-Daigo amid the conflicts of the Nanboku-cho period, when rival Northern and Southern Imperial Courts competed for power. Tradition holds that 64 imperial princesses served as Saiō over the centuries.
The location of the Nonomiya residence changed from one generation to the next. However, during the reign of Emperor Saga, when Princess Ninshi served as Saiō, the residence was established at the site where Nonomiya Shrine stands today.
After the Saiō system ended, the site continued as a Shinto shrine dedicated to Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess and one of the most important deities in Japanese mythology. The shrine has continued to receive deep respect from the imperial family throughout its history.
Nonomiya Daikokuten, a subsidiary shrine within the grounds, is especially famous as a place to pray for success in love and relationships.
Beside the shrine is a sacred stone known as Shinseki, or Kameishi (the Turtle Stone). According to local belief, those who make a wish while gently rubbing the stone may have their wish granted within one year. The stone’s smooth, dark, polished surface reflects the many prayers offered by visitors over time.
Although the garden covers only about 20 tsubo—approximately 66 square meters—it recreates the natural scenery of Arashiyama in a compact and imaginative design.
Soft green moss spreads like a carpet across gently undulating mounds, creating a lush, dreamlike landscape. White pebbles represent the Katsura River, crossed by a miniature version of Togetsukyo Bridge, one of Arashiyama’s most recognizable landmarks.
Sunlight filtering through the surrounding trees adds depth and atmosphere to this tranquil garden. The combination of moss, stones, and carefully arranged scenery creates a peaceful setting that feels worlds away from the bustle of the city.
Seasonal plants, including maple trees, camellias, rhododendrons, and Japanese andromeda, bring changing colors and textures to the shrine grounds throughout the year.
The Tale of Genji, written by Murasaki Shikibu, is widely regarded as one of the greatest works in the history of Japanese literature. This classic narrative consists of 54 chapters and explores courtly life, human emotions, romance, and the impermanence of worldly happiness.
Nonomiya Shrine appears in the chapter “Sakaki,” where it becomes the setting for the painful parting between Hikaru Genji, the story’s central character, and Lady Rokujo. The episode later inspired the Noh drama Nonomiya, preserving the shrine’s association with this moving tale.
Lady Rokujo became the wife of the Crown Prince at the age of 16, and the couple had a daughter. She was widowed at 20. Around the age of 24, she entered into a romantic relationship with Hikaru Genji, the younger brother of her late husband.
Genji was initially attracted to Lady Rokujo, whose beauty, elegance, intelligence, education, and noble status made her an exceptional woman at the imperial court. Over time, however, he began to feel overwhelmed by the relationship and gradually grew distant.
Lady Rokujo became increasingly devoted to Genji and longed to be the only woman in his heart. Yet her pride as a noblewoman and her discomfort at being older than him prevented her from openly expressing her feelings. She suppressed her jealousy and emotional pain rather than risk appearing vulnerable.
In the story, these intense, repressed emotions take on a supernatural form. Her jealous spirit is said to leave her body, becoming a living spirit that harms the women loved by Genji. Later, when she notices the scent of the incense used to ward off evil spirits lingering on her hair and clothing, she realizes with horror that her own spirit may have attacked Genji’s principal wife.
Eventually, Lady Rokujo recognizes that she has lost Genji’s love. Determined to sever their relationship, she accompanies her daughter, who has been selected to serve as Saiō, to the sacred retreat at Nonomiya before their departure for Ise.
Genji travels deep into Sagano to visit Lady Rokujo at Nonomiya. Away from the capital, he is overcome by a profound sense of loneliness and melancholy.
The autumn flowers have passed their peak, and faint insect calls mingle with the wind blowing through the pine trees. From time to time, the delicate sound of a musical instrument drifts through the air. To Genji, the scene possesses an exquisite and deeply moving beauty.
The residence is modest, enclosed by a simple fence of small branches, with plainly constructed buildings scattered within the grounds. The dark, bark-covered torii appears solemn and sacred, while the movements and quiet conversations of the attendants reinforce the feeling that this is a place unlike any other.
Faint light from a fire illuminates the humble buildings. The atmosphere is secluded and damp, and Genji finds it painful to imagine that the woman he once loved has spent months living apart from the world in such a place.
In the past, Genji had been able to visit Lady Rokujo whenever he wished. When she openly returned his affection, he took her feelings for granted and gave little thought to her emotional needs. As his interest faded, the distance between them grew.
Now, meeting her again after such a long separation, he is overwhelmed by memories of their former relationship. Thinking about both the past and the future, he becomes emotional and begins to weep.
Lady Rokujo tries to maintain her dignity and conceal her lingering affection, but she struggles to control her emotions. Genji, moved by her distress, urges her to reconsider leaving for Ise.
As they gaze into the autumn sky, darkened by hidden moonlight, Genji’s words momentarily ease the sorrow and suffering that Lady Rokujo has carried within her. Although she had resolved to leave him behind, seeing him again makes her heart waver and their impending separation even more painful.
As dawn approaches, the sky appears almost too beautiful to be real. Genji expresses his feelings in a poem:
“Partings at dawn have always been wet with tears; yet this morning’s autumn sky is unlike any the world has known.”
The poem reflects the unusual clarity and freshness of the autumn sky, contrasting with the tears and sadness of their farewell.
Genji finds it difficult to leave and holds Lady Rokujo’s hand, lingering beside her. The cold wind blows through the pines, while the cries of pine crickets seem to echo their sorrow. Their emotions are so overwhelming that neither can find the words to compose another poem with ease.
Lady Rokujo then expresses her grief in verse:
“Autumn partings are sorrowful enough; do not add to my grief by singing, pine crickets of the field.”
There is much they regret, but nothing can change what lies ahead. As the sky brightens, Genji finally departs, his journey marked by tears.
After this final, painful farewell, Lady Rokujo travels to Ise with her daughter, who is serving as Saiō. She is said to have been 30 years old at the time.
This episode is adapted into modern language from the “Sakaki” chapter of The Tale of Genji.
Nonomiya Shrine offers a rare combination of ancient imperial traditions, Shinto spirituality, classical Japanese literature, and natural beauty. Visitors can admire its distinctive black torii, make a wish at the Turtle Stone, and enjoy the peaceful moss garden while exploring the famous Bamboo Grove of Arashiyama.
For those interested in Japanese history and literature, the shrine provides a special opportunity to connect with the world of The Tale of Genji and the poignant story of Lady Rokujo and Hikaru Genji.
Free
45 min. by city/Kyoto bus from JR Kyoto Stn.
10 min. on foot from Saga-Arashiyama Sta. on JR Sagano Line