Tenryuji Temple

Tenryu-ji and Japanese Cinema

With its traditional architecture reminiscent of samurai residences, as well as its proximity to Togetsukyo Bridge and the scenic Arashiyama gorge, Tenryu-ji has long attracted filmmakers. Since the Meiji era (1868–1912), the temple and its surroundings have been used as locations for numerous Japanese films.

Exploring the Temple Grounds

The temple grounds extend from the Imperial Messenger Gate on the eastern side toward the west. The gate was relocated from Fushimi Castle in 1641. Along the approach, smaller subtemples stand on both sides, leading to the Dharma Hall, followed by the Large Abbot’s Hall, Small Abbot’s Hall, kitchen building, and Tahoden Hall.

The Kitchen Building (Kuri)

Rebuilt in 1899, the kitchen building is one of Tenryu-ji’s most recognizable landmarks. Its distinctive triangular gabled roof and white walls divided by exposed wooden beams create a striking traditional appearance.

The Large Abbot’s Hall (Daihojo)

The Large Abbot’s Hall is the biggest building in the temple complex and was also rebuilt in 1899. Wide verandas on both the front and rear offer views of the garden.

Inside, the building follows a traditional six-room layout. The central room has 48 tatami mats, while the rooms on either side each have 24 tatami mats. The three rooms can be opened into one large space, and the sliding doors separating the eastern and western sections feature paintings of dragons among clouds.

Sogenchi Pond Garden: A Masterpiece of Zen Landscape Design

The temple’s celebrated Sogenchi Pond Garden was designed by Muso Soseki. This stroll garden is arranged around a central pond, allowing visitors to enjoy changing views as they walk along its paths.

The garden incorporates the surrounding landscape through a technique known as shakkei, or borrowed scenery. The mountains of Arashiyama across the Katsura River and Mount Kameyama, also known as Mount Ogura, to the west become part of the garden’s composition.

Natural scenery is combined with carefully arranged stones to express the spirit of Zen Buddhism. Muso Soseki’s garden design helped shape traditional Japanese aesthetic ideals, including wabi (simple, understated beauty), sabi (the beauty of age and imperfection), and yugen (profound, subtle beauty).

Muso Soseki was highly respected by Ashikaga Takauji and was granted the honorary title of Kokushi, meaning National Master, by Emperor Go-Daigo in recognition of his distinguished Buddhist practice.

A Former Imperial Retreat

During the early Heian period (794–1185), Emperor Saga maintained an imperial villa called Kameyama-dono on the site where Tenryu-ji now stands.

The name Kameyama, meaning Turtle Mountain, refers to Mount Ogura west of the temple. The mountain is famous for its autumn foliage, and its shape is said to resemble a turtle’s shell.

The temple’s full formal name is Reigizan Tenryu Shisei Zen-ji. Its mountain name, Reigizan, reflects the area’s historical associations.

The Founding of Tenryu-ji

Ashikaga Takauji and Emperor Go-Daigo were political rivals. In 1336, Takauji emerged victorious from the Kenmu Restoration conflict, paving the way for the establishment of the Ashikaga shogunate. He became shogun in 1338, and Emperor Go-Daigo died the following year.

Muso Soseki, a respected Zen monk and landscape designer admired by the warrior class, strongly encouraged Takauji to establish a temple in memory of the late emperor. Takauji converted the former imperial villa of Kameyama-dono into a Buddhist temple, founding Tenryu-ji to pray for the emperor’s spiritual well-being.

The Meaning Behind the Temple’s Name

The temple was initially intended to be called Reio Shisei Zen-ji, using the name of the current era. However, Ashikaga Tadayoshi, Takauji’s younger brother, reportedly dreamed of a golden dragon dancing over the Katsura River south of the temple site.

Inspired by this dream, the temple was named Tenryu Shisei Zen-ji, meaning the Zen Temple of the Heavenly Dragon.

The Tenryu-ji Trading Ship

The newly established Ashikaga shogunate lacked sufficient funds to construct the temple. To finance the project, Muso Soseki and Ashikaga Tadayoshi arranged for a trading ship known as the Tenryu-ji Ship to sail to Yuan China, the Mongol-led dynasty that ruled China at the time.

Trade between Japan and China had been interrupted, but the expedition successfully reached China and conducted business. The ship returned with substantial profits, which helped fund the construction of Tenryu-ji.

Connections with the Imperial Family and the Ashikaga Shoguns

In 1394, Emperor Go-Kameyama met Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Ashikaga shogunate, at Tenryu-ji. Go-Kameyama, who had not formally ascended the throne in the usual manner, was granted the honorary title of retired emperor.

A Vast Temple Estate

Tenryu-ji flourished as the highest-ranking temple among Kyoto’s Five Great Zen Temples. Its grounds were once said to cover approximately 9.5 million square meters and included around 150 subtemples.

In 1585, Toyotomi Hideyoshi donated temple lands yielding 1,720 koku of rice annually. In 1604, Tokugawa Ieyasu approved an estate yielding 7,020 koku.

Despite its former grandeur, the temple suffered repeated fires and destruction during periods of warfare. Almost all the original buildings were lost, and most of the structures visible today date from the late Meiji era onward. The historic garden designed by Muso Soseki preserves some of the atmosphere of the temple’s early years.

The Cloud Dragon Painting

The Dharma Hall is famous for its dramatic ceiling painting of a dragon among clouds. The original work was created in 1899 by Suzuki Shonen, who painted it on Japanese paper before attaching it to the ceiling.

Because the original painting deteriorated significantly, artist Kayama Matazo created a new Cloud Dragon Painting in 1997. Known as an all-directional gaze dragon, its eyes appear to follow viewers wherever they stand. The term refers to the four cardinal directions and the four diagonal directions.

A portion of Suzuki Shonen’s original work is preserved in the Large Abbot’s Hall.

Traditional Buddhist Vegetarian Cuisine

Near the southern side of Sogenchi Pond stands a building modeled on Ryumontei. It houses Shigetsu, a restaurant serving traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, known as shojin ryori.

The dishes are prepared with fresh seasonal vegetables and wild mountain plants, offering visitors an opportunity to experience the refined food culture associated with Zen Buddhism.

Discover the Sights of Arashiyama

Tenryu-ji is ideally located for exploring the scenic Arashiyama district. Togetsukyo Bridge and the Arashiyama landscape lie to the south of the temple. Exiting through the north gate leads toward the famous Bamboo Grove Path, as well as Okochi Sanso Garden, Jojakko-ji Temple, and Ochikochi Sanso.