Hatahata, known in English as the sailfin sandfish, is a fish deeply rooted in the food culture of Yamagata Prefecture. Its season runs from late autumn through winter, when it becomes an especially popular seasonal delicacy.
Hatahata normally lives in deep waters, but during its spawning season, large schools move toward the coast and gather in shallow waters amid rough seas. Because the fish often appears during stormy weather accompanied by thunder, it has traditionally been known in Japanese as “Kaminariuo,” or “thunder fish.”
Hatahata is perhaps best known as an ingredient in traditional cuisine from neighboring Akita Prefecture, but it has also been enjoyed in Yamagata for generations. The fish has a particularly strong connection with local winter customs.
For example, on December 9, during the traditional “Daikokusama no Otoshiya” celebration, it is customary in some areas of Yamagata to offer hatahata dengaku, a dish in which the fish is grilled with a savory miso-based topping. This tradition reflects the important role that hatahata has played in Yamagata’s seasonal food culture.
Hatahata can grow to around 25 cm in length. Unlike many other fish, it has no scales, making it relatively easy to clean and prepare.
When especially fresh, hatahata can be enjoyed as sashimi. It is also commonly prepared in a variety of other ways, including simmering, grilling with salt, and drying. These different cooking methods allow diners to enjoy the distinctive flavor and texture of this seasonal fish.
One of the most prized features of female hatahata during the spawning season is its roe, known as “buriko.” The eggs have a rich flavor and a distinctive, pleasantly firm texture that makes them a sought-after delicacy.
Hatahata filled with plenty of buriko is particularly popular. Enjoying both the tender flesh and the flavorful roe is one of the special pleasures of eating hatahata at the height of its season.
Peak season: October, November, and December
Hatahata comes into season as autumn deepens and winter approaches. In Yamagata, this seasonal fish has been cherished not only as a local food but also as part of traditional customs and annual celebrations.
For visitors to Yamagata, tasting locally caught hatahata during its autumn and winter season offers an opportunity to experience a distinctive part of the region’s traditional food culture.