The waters of Kumano-nada off Owase, in Mie Prefecture, are known for their abundant bonito, a migratory fish carried along the coast by the powerful Kuroshio Current. Fishing boats head out in spring and autumn to catch bonito at two distinct stages of its seasonal migration.
From May to June, fishermen target hatsu-gatsuo, or “first bonito,” as the fish migrate northward. From August to October, they seek modori-gatsuo, or “returning bonito,” which travel southward toward their spawning grounds. These seasonal catches give visitors two opportunities to enjoy the distinctive flavors of bonito from the region.
Bonito swimming through the rough waters of Kumano-nada develop firm flesh, making them particularly appealing to seafood lovers. Their seasonal migrations and the area’s strong ocean currents contribute to the region’s longstanding fishing culture.
In recent years, the traditional fishing method known as kenken fishing has also been revived. This technique is said to have been introduced from Hawaii during the Meiji period (1868–1912). Fishermen use artificial lures to catch bonito individually rather than hauling them in together with large nets.
Because each fish is carefully hooked and brought aboard, it can be handled with minimal damage and promptly dispatched using a technique known as ikejime, which helps preserve freshness and quality. Bonito caught in this way are highly valued and can command premium prices at market.
The main seasonal periods are spring, especially March through June, and autumn, particularly September and October. Whether enjoyed during the northward migration or the return journey south, bonito from Kumano-nada offers a taste of the area’s rich marine environment and enduring fishing traditions.