The First Half: Ryushun Falls and the Deep Gorge
Descending from Saruiwa Parking Area
From Saruiwa Parking Area, the trail descends steeply toward a tributary of the Hoki River, far below National Route 400. Large rocks are scattered throughout the valley, and clear blue pools appear between the rugged rock faces. This dramatic landscape emerges soon after the walk begins.
The sound of flowing water and the fresh scent of the forest accompany hikers as they make their way down into the gorge. The steep descent offers an immediate sense of the scale and rugged character of Shiobara’s natural landscape.
Ryushun Suspension Bridge and Ryushun Falls
One of the first major highlights is Ryushun Suspension Bridge, which is approximately 20 meters long. From the bridge, visitors can look across the gorge, where steep rock walls and clear flowing water create an impressive natural scene. The landscape is particularly beautiful when the forest is covered in fresh green leaves or autumn colors.
Near the bridge is Ryushun Falls, a graceful waterfall that flows down a rock face approximately 15 meters high. Its name, meaning a waterfall that retains spring, is connected with an earlier seasonal pattern: the water reportedly stopped flowing for about three months during winter and began flowing again in late spring. Although it now flows throughout the year, its gentle appearance still evokes the arrival of spring.
Climbing to the Ridge and Observation Point
Large Fir Trees and Steep Stone Steps
Beyond Ryushun Falls, the trail climbs a slope and reaches a stream. From there, a steep flight of stone steps leads through a forest of large Japanese fir trees. This is one of the most demanding sections of the Retrospective Course, requiring hikers to climb carefully while taking breaks as needed.
Once the climb is complete, turning around reveals a magnificent view of the Oami district below. The scenery is so striking that visitors may find themselves looking back repeatedly, a feeling that seems particularly appropriate for a route called “Retrospective.”
A Ridge Covered with Azaleas
Continuing along the trail, hikers reach a ridge where akayashio and shiroyashio azaleas grow in clusters. Around mid-April, their pale pink and white flowers bloom across the mountainside, creating a beautiful seasonal display.
This ridge is approximately halfway along the course and also marks its highest point. An observation area provides wide views of the Oami district and the surrounding mountains. It is an ideal place to pause, catch your breath, and enjoy the scenery after the strenuous climb.
The Second Half: Forests and the Famous Retrospective Waterfall
Larch Plantations and Natural Forest
Beyond the observation point, the trail gradually descends. It first passes through a planted larch forest before reaching a ridge lined with large Japanese fir and hiba arborvitae trees.
This section has a quieter atmosphere, with sunlight filtering through the branches and the forest surrounding the path. Along the way, there are places where visitors can catch distant views of Retrospective Falls and Shiobara Dam, offering a sense of the depth and scale of the gorge.
Retrospective Suspension Bridge
One of the most memorable landmarks near the end of the course is Retrospective Suspension Bridge. Completed in 1987, the bridge is approximately 100 meters long and stands about 30 meters above the ground. Its impressive scale makes it one of the most striking suspension bridges in the Shiobara area.
From the bridge, visitors can look down toward the Hoki River gorge and see Momijidani Great Suspension Bridge in the distance. The elevated viewpoint provides a broad perspective of the valley and its forested slopes.
Retrospective Falls
After crossing the suspension bridge, visitors can reach an observation platform overlooking Retrospective Falls. The waterfall drops approximately 55 meters and is counted among the Ten Famous Waterfalls of Shiobara.
The water descends over the rock face in a delicate cascade resembling a curtain of crystal. Despite its graceful appearance, the height and volume of the waterfall make it an impressive sight.
Retrospective Falls also appears in Konjiki Yasha (The Golden Demon), the famous novel by Meiji-era writer Koyo Ozaki. The literary connection adds another dimension to the waterfall’s reputation as one of Shiobara’s notable scenic attractions.
The Japanese word “mikaeri” means “to look back.” According to local tradition, the waterfall received this name because travelers leaving the valley were so impressed by its beauty that they repeatedly turned around to look at it again. The view from the observation area makes the name easy to understand.
Oami: A Historic Hot Spring District
The Oami district, near the Retrospective Course, is an old hot spring area where hot water is said to have emerged as early as the Heian period (794–1185).
Along the river, a flight of approximately 300 steps leads down to rustic outdoor baths where hot spring water rises naturally between the rocks. The baths are known for their natural setting and the quality of their mineral water. The area is also associated with Shiobara’s early history of drinking hot spring water, and its source is described as the first in Shiobara to receive official recognition for this use.
One explanation for the name Oami relates to fish swimming upstream in the river. When the fish were blocked by a waterfall, large nets were reportedly set up to catch them in great numbers. The name is said to have originated from this practice.
How to Enjoy the Shiobara Valley Trail
The Retrospective Course and Yashio Course are the two principal routes introduced as part of the Shiobara Valley Trail. Together, they cover approximately 8.5 kilometers and connect a variety of attractions, including suspension bridges, waterfalls, observation points, and footbaths.
Visitors do not necessarily need to walk the entire trail. Shorter sections can be explored in around 40 minutes, depending on the route selected. Choosing a suitable section according to available time and physical fitness is a good way to enjoy the area.
Spring brings the flowers of akayashio and yamatsutsuji azaleas, while summer covers the gorge in deep green foliage. Autumn is especially popular for its colorful leaves, and winter brings a quieter landscape, with frozen waterfalls possible during cold periods.
The Retrospective Course is particularly rewarding for hikers who enjoy steep trails, dramatic viewpoints, and the atmosphere of a deep forest. However, its challenging terrain means that visitors should allow sufficient time and avoid setting out without appropriate preparation.
Access
Western trailhead – Saruiwa Parking Area: Take a Kanto Bus and get off at Oami bus stop. The parking area is approximately 500 meters away, or an 8-minute walk.
Eastern trailhead – Gamaishi Garden, near Retrospective Bridge: Take a Kanto Bus and get off at Mikaeri Bridge bus stop. The trailhead is nearby.
Because the Retrospective Course includes steep slopes and stone steps, visitors should wear sturdy walking or hiking shoes and carry sufficient drinking water. Trail conditions can change due to weather, fallen trees, or maintenance work, so check the latest information with the Shiobara Onsen Visitor Center before departure.
With its impressive waterfalls, elevated suspension bridges, azalea-covered ridges, and quiet forests, the Retrospective Course offers one of the most rewarding hiking experiences in Shiobara. For visitors prepared for a physically demanding walk, it is an excellent way to experience the dramatic natural beauty of the valley.