Togura Kamiyamada Onsen is a historic hot spring destination in Chikuma, Nagano Prefecture. The name “Shinshu Togura Kamiyamada Onsen” collectively refers to the Togura and Kamiyamada hot spring areas on the left bank of the Chikuma River, together with the Shintogura Onsen area on the right bank. From its beginnings as a traditional hot spring retreat, the area developed into a lively resort town and continues to attract visitors with its distinctive atmosphere, abundant hot spring water, and long history.
The history of the hot springs dates back to the middle of the Meiji period. In 1888, a railway station was built in a neighboring village, but Togura Village did not receive a station. Concerned that the village would be left behind, village headman Sakai Ryonosuke invested his own money and ordered the drilling of a hot spring near the riverbank.
The Togura hot spring finally opened in 1893. However, the original spring emerged on a sandbar in the Chikuma River, where repeated flooding caused the facilities to be washed away. In 1902, the hot spring facilities were moved to the right bank of the river, and in 1916 they were moved again to the left bank.
The hot spring area grew rapidly from the late Meiji period through the Taisho era. By the late Taisho period, a recognizable hot spring town had developed. With the opening of Taisho Bridge and the establishment of a theater for hot spring entertainment, the area became a popular place to stay and recover after visiting Zenkoji Temple.
After World War II, the hot spring town also served as a place of recuperation for wounded soldiers. During the latter part of the Showa period, its popularity expanded further, particularly among corporate and group travelers. More than 1.3 million tourists visited annually, and the town was once home to more than 300 geisha, creating a lively entertainment district.
Togura Kamiyamada Onsen is known for its simple sulfur springs and simple hydrogen sulfide springs. The water is considered gentle on the skin and has traditionally been associated with benefits for conditions such as neuralgia and rheumatism.
Today, the area has 52 hot spring sources, producing an impressive 8,332 liters of hot spring water per minute. This abundant supply supports the many baths and accommodations throughout the town and makes hot spring bathing an integral part of everyday life in the area.
The Sakai family had served as village headmen of the former Shimotogura-juku since the Edo period, and Ryonosuke Sakai was the family’s 15th headman. He invested his personal fortune in developing the hot springs and also worked to attract a railway station to Togura.
Although his efforts contributed greatly to the development of the area, he lost his hot spring facilities twice because of flooding from the Chikuma River. He eventually faced bankruptcy and died in 1905, before seeing the opening of the railway station he had worked so hard to attract.
Kunisaburo Hatayama, a successful businessman in Nagano, carried on Sakai’s vision. He helped stabilize the hot spring area by improving embankments and bridges, while also promoting new hot spring drilling and the construction of facilities.
His work laid the foundations for the modern Togura Kamiyamada Onsen. A stone monument honoring both Sakai Ryonosuke and Hatayama Kunisaburo can still be found along the river embankment.
Today, approximately 50 ryokan inns and hotels are scattered throughout the hot spring town. Streets such as Hanamachi-dori and Shinsekai-dori retain an atmosphere reminiscent of Japan’s Showa era, with shooting galleries, restaurants, and other traditional entertainment establishments.
The town also continues the tradition of geisha entertainment, with around 150 geisha associated with the hot spring district. After enjoying a bath and dinner, visitors can experience a glimpse of the sophisticated nightlife that has long been part of the area’s culture.
Visitors do not need to stay overnight to enjoy the hot springs. Several facilities offer bathing for day visitors. On the left bank of the Chikuma River are Kame-no-Yu, Tsuru-no-Yu, and Zuisyo, while facilities on the right bank include Manyo Choonpa Onsen, Togura Kanze Onsen, Togura Kokumin Onsen, and Togura Maryland Shiratori-en.
Each facility offers a different bathing experience, making it easy to explore several of the area’s distinctive hot springs during a visit.
Koishi-no-Yu, meaning “Hot Spring of Longing,” is associated with a poignant Edo-period legend about a woman named Omasa. She longed to be reunited with her lover and continued searching for a small red stone.
According to the legend, Omasa received a message from Kannon in a dream telling her to collect 100 red stones from the riverbank of the Chikuma River. While searching for the final stone, she discovered a hot spring. She warmed her hands in the spring while continuing her search, eventually finding the last stone and being reunited with her lover.
In memory of this story, 99 small red stones are embedded in Taisho Bridge. Visitors can enjoy searching for the stones and perhaps imagine where the legendary 100th stone might be.
The annex known as Honenmushi at Sasaya Hotel was designed in 1932 by architect Arata Endo. Influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright, Endo created a striking Japanese-Western fusion design incorporating the refined aesthetics of sukiya-style architecture.
The building’s innovative design and elegant combination of Japanese and Western elements have earned it recognition as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan since 2003.
May: Ushinitsurete Zenkoji-mairi, a traditional event associated with pilgrimage to Zenkoji Temple.
July: Summer Festival and Grand Fireworks Display.
August: Chikuma River Summer Fireworks Festival, a popular summer spectacle along the river.
From Togura Station on the Shinano Railway, the hot spring town can be reached by taxi in approximately 10 minutes. Chikuma City’s community buses, including the Hot Bus, Sazanami, and Yamabiko services, are also convenient for getting around the area.
For travelers arriving by car, the area can be reached from the Sakaki Interchange on the Joshin-Etsu Expressway, followed by National Route 18.
Shinshu Togura Kamiyamada Onsen has developed over more than a century, from the difficult beginnings of its Meiji-era hot spring development to its prosperity during the Showa period and its continued popularity today. Its history was shaped not only by abundant hot spring water, but also by the determination of the people who overcame repeated flooding and other hardships to build the town.
Historic inns, traditional entertainment streets, cultural properties, local legends, seasonal festivals, and the relaxing waters of the hot springs come together to create an atmosphere that is distinctive to this part of Nagano. For travelers seeking a Japanese hot spring experience that combines history, local culture, traditional townscape, and restorative bathing, Togura Kamiyamada Onsen offers a memorable destination along the Chikuma River.