One of the most distinctive tastes of summer in Miyagi Prefecture is hoya, a sea squirt often nicknamed the “pineapple of the sea.” With its unusual aroma, firm texture, and remarkable combination of five flavors—sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami—hoya offers a seafood experience unlike almost anything else.
Across Miyagi, visitors can enjoy hoya in a wide variety of dishes. In late May, the city of Ishinomaki also hosts a Hoya Festival, where locals and visitors gather to enjoy seasonal hoya and discover more about this distinctive coastal food culture.
Hoya is a marine animal belonging to the class Ascidiacea within the subphylum Tunicata. More than 2,000 species of sea squirts are known around the world.
During its early life, a hoya larva resembles a tiny tadpole. As it develops, it undergoes a remarkable transformation and attaches itself to rocks, ropes, and other surfaces underwater. Its adult form can look surprisingly plant-like, so it may initially be mistaken for seaweed.
Despite its unusual appearance, hoya is an animal and belongs to the chordate group, making it biologically more closely related to vertebrates than its appearance might suggest. Its unusual life cycle has also made sea squirts useful subjects for biological research.
The Japanese name hoya is traditionally said to come from its resemblance to a hoya, the glass or protective shade used around the flame of an old-fashioned lamp. Another explanation connects the name with the appearance of the mistletoe-like plant known as hoya.
The creature is commonly written as 海鞘 in Japanese. Historical names and written forms have included other characters as well.
The species most commonly eaten in Japan include maboya and akaboya. The Sanriku coastal region of Miyagi is one of Japan’s major production areas.
Hoya is prized for its distinctive aroma, firm texture, and abundance of minerals. Maboya, in particular, contains a notable balance of umami compounds such as glutamic acid and 5’-GMP, contributing to its complex taste.
It can be prepared in many ways, including sashimi, vinegared dishes, grilled hoya, fried dishes, and shiokara. When extremely fresh, hoya has little unpleasant odor. Instead, a subtle sweetness and refreshing ocean aroma spread through the mouth.
Because hoya can develop a stronger metallic or marine odor as time passes, freshness and careful handling are especially important. This is one reason why eating freshly harvested hoya in a coastal community can be such a memorable culinary experience.
In Miyagi, the main season for hoya is from early summer through summer. Aquaculture is particularly active around the Oshika Peninsula and Onagawa Town, where hoya is cultivated at 15 coastal fishing grounds.
In Onagawa, visitors may find freshly harvested hoya at local shops and restaurants. Being able to taste the day’s catch close to the fishing grounds offers a direct connection to the region’s coastal food culture.
Hoya sashimi is one of the simplest ways to experience this unusual seafood. Fresh hoya is opened, the edible flesh is removed, and it is sliced for serving.
The result is an intense combination of sweetness, saltiness, sourness, bitterness, and umami. The distinctive ocean aroma becomes especially noticeable in this raw preparation, making it an ideal choice for adventurous seafood lovers.
Miso-grilled hoya is a popular preparation that softens some of hoya’s stronger aromas while bringing its savory character to the forefront.
The fragrant, slightly caramelized flavor of miso pairs beautifully with the juicy texture of hoya. For first-time visitors who are uncertain about trying raw hoya, a grilled preparation can be an approachable introduction.
Hoya rice is made by cooking hoya and rice together with a flavorful broth. As the rice cooks, it absorbs the shellfish-like umami and marine aroma of the hoya.
In Onagawa, visitors may also encounter a distinctive dish called Hoya Bakudan, in which hoya is served in its own shell. Its unusual presentation makes it an especially memorable local specialty.
Hoya manju is a creative local snack in which a dough flavored with hoya is wrapped around a filling made by stir-frying hoya with ingredients such as shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and green onions.
The result combines the distinctive aroma of hoya with the savory flavors of vegetables, offering a different way to enjoy this local seafood.
The Hoya Festival is held in Ishinomaki around late May, celebrating one of the region’s best-known seasonal seafoods.
Festival stalls offer a variety of hoya dishes, while visitors can also take part in hoya-cleaning and preparation experiences and browse local specialty products. For international travelers, the event provides an excellent opportunity to experience not only the food itself but also the traditions and culture surrounding Miyagi’s coastal fisheries.
Again Station in Onagawa is a local tourism facility where visitors can enjoy fresh hoya dishes and learn more about the area’s seafood culture.
The name “Again” comes from the Onagawa dialect and means roughly “Please, have some” or “Please enjoy your meal.” The welcoming name reflects the facility’s role as a place where visitors can experience local food and hospitality.
Depending on the program, visitors can enjoy activities such as hoya preparation, making steamed hoya, and hoya tasting comparisons.
In a hoya preparation experience, visitors learn how to remove the intake and outlet openings, open the animal with a knife, take out the edible flesh, and cut it into pieces for sashimi.
Preparing the hoya yourself and then tasting it immediately provides a particularly fresh experience. The natural sweetness, umami, and ocean aroma become especially vivid when the seafood is eaten soon after preparation.
The Again Plaza shop offers a selection of processed hoya products and local snacks. These may include heso hoya, known for its relatively strong sweetness and approachable flavor, as well as hoya shiokara and other savory snacks.
These products are a convenient way to take home a taste of Onagawa’s distinctive seafood culture.
For an especially unusual food experience, look for hoya-salt soft-serve ice cream associated with Onagawa Ochakko Club.
The topping is made from hoya salt, produced by concentrating and roasting seawater taken in by hoya. The salty, subtly marine flavor is paired with rich, creamy milk ice cream, creating a surprising dessert aimed particularly at adventurous adult travelers.
Hoya is much more than an unusual seafood delicacy. It is closely connected with Miyagi’s coastal fisheries, local food traditions, and tourism. Its distinctive flavor may surprise visitors who are trying it for the first time, while experienced fans appreciate its complex combination of tastes and aromas.
From fresh sashimi and miso-grilled hoya to hoya rice, shiokara, and even hoya-salt ice cream, Miyagi offers many different ways to discover this remarkable ingredient.
When traveling through Ishinomaki, Onagawa, and the Sanriku Coast, consider adding hoya to your culinary itinerary. Tasting this “pineapple of the sea” during its summer season is a memorable way to experience the flavors, fishing traditions, and hospitality of Miyagi’s Pacific coast.