Sanma (Pacific saury) from Miyagi Prefecture is one of the region’s signature autumn delicacies, nurtured in the rich waters off the Sanriku coast. Kesennuma City and Onagawa Town are particularly well known as major saury fishing ports in Japan, where fresh, richly fatty sanma are landed during the autumn fishing season.
During summer, sanma feed and build up plenty of nutrients in waters around northern Japan, including off Hokkaido. As autumn arrives, they migrate south toward the Sanriku coast. By this time, the fish have developed a generous layer of fat and tender flesh, making them delicious when grilled, simmered, or served as sashimi.
The peak season for Miyagi sanma is generally August through October. During the autumn fishing season, fresh sanma are brought into the local ports one after another, attracting visitors who want to experience the fish at its source.
Exceptionally fresh sanma are worth trying not only grilled but also as sashimi. This preparation allows diners to appreciate the natural sweetness of the fish’s fat and its distinctive flavor. Served with vinegared miso or soy sauce accompanied by aromatic condiments, fresh sanma offers a refreshing taste balanced by rich umami.
One of the most popular ways to enjoy sanma is shioyaki, or salt-grilled sanma. When a fatty sanma is grilled over heat, the skin becomes crisp and fragrant while the flesh remains moist and tender.
Adding grated daikon radish or sudachi citrus provides a refreshing contrast to the rich flavor of the fish. This simple preparation is a classic Japanese way to enjoy the natural taste of seasonal sanma.
Sanma has tender flesh and is relatively easy to cook, making it suitable for a wide variety of dishes. In addition to salt-grilling, it is used in tsumire-jiru fish-ball soup, simmered dishes, tsukudani, fried dishes, and sushi rolls.
Sanma is also valued as a nutritious fish. It contains polyunsaturated fatty acids such as EPA and DHA, as well as protein and various minerals. This makes it popular not only as a delicious symbol of autumn but also as a nutritious part of the Japanese diet.
One of the pleasures of visiting a fishing region is having the opportunity to taste fish soon after it has been landed. When the fish is exceptionally fresh, sanma sashimi offers a chance to enjoy its tender texture and high-quality fat.
Fatty sanma pairs especially well with vinegared miso or soy sauce served with aromatic condiments. Its smooth texture and fresh, natural flavor are quite different from grilled sanma, making sashimi a particularly appealing choice when visiting the Sanriku coast during the fishing season.
Sanma Kigaki is a traditional local dish associated with fishing communities such as the Kesennuma area of Miyagi Prefecture. It is a simple home-style dish made with sanma, daikon radish, and green onions, traditionally prepared during the autumn season when fresh sanma were landed at local ports.
Today, soy sauce is generally used to season the dish. However, the dish has its roots in an older food culture in which gyosho, or Japanese fish sauce, was used as a seasoning.
In the Motoyoshi area of Kesennuma, bonito once migrated close to the coast and was landed in large quantities. It is said that the liquid produced when bonito was preserved with salt was called “kigaki” and was used as a seasoning.
This traditional fish sauce was used to simmer daikon and other ingredients, and the resulting dishes became known for their delicious flavor. Over time, dishes made by simmering daikon with squid preserved in salt or other salted fish products also came to be called “kigaki.”
Eventually, fresh fish such as sanma began to be used as well, and the dish became established as a traditional home-style preparation in the region.
From the Meiji period onward, soy sauce became increasingly available throughout rural Japan. As a result, Sanma Kigaki gradually changed to a soy-sauce-based preparation. Today, simmering sanma with soy sauce is the more common style.
The basic ingredients for Sanma Kigaki are sanma, daikon radish, and green onions. In some traditional preparations, grated daikon, including its juices, is added to the pot and simmered with the fish. The daikon absorbs the rich umami of the sanma, creating a gentle and comforting flavor.
Once the sanma is cooked, the flesh is loosened and the backbone is removed. Soy sauce is then added, and the dish is simmered briefly to bring the flavors together. It is served in a bowl and finished with chopped green onions.
Sanma Kigaki is enjoyed not only as a dish with steamed rice but also as a snack to accompany sake, reflecting the culinary traditions of Miyagi’s fishing communities.
The main ingredients are sanma, daikon radish, and green onions. Because the recipe is so simple, it allows the rich fat and umami of the sanma and the mild flavor of daikon to take center stage.
Miyagi sanma is an autumn delicacy that reflects both the abundant waters of Sanriku and the region’s long-standing fishing culture. In port towns such as Kesennuma and Onagawa, fresh sanma can be enjoyed in many forms, including salt-grilled sanma, sashimi, simmered dishes, and fish-ball soup.
Fresh sanma sashimi, which can be difficult to enjoy outside the fishing regions, is particularly interesting for visitors, while Sanma Kigaki offers a glimpse into the traditional home cooking of Miyagi’s coastal communities.
If you visit the Sanriku coast during sanma season, try this seasonal fish in several different preparations and discover the distinctive flavors of Miyagi’s autumn seafood culture.