Jikkoku Pass is a mountain pass on the border between Sakuho Town in Minamisaku District, Nagano Prefecture, and Ueno Village in Tano District, Gunma Prefecture. Rising to an elevation of 1,351 meters, the pass is located at the southernmost edge of the Myogi-Arafune-Saku Kogen Quasi-National Park and is surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery.
For centuries, Jikkoku Pass served as an important route connecting Shinshu (present-day Nagano) and Joshu (present-day Gunma). Today, it remains a popular destination for travelers interested in both mountain scenery and the history of the old transportation routes.
The name “Jikkoku” is traditionally said to come from the amount of rice transported each day during the Edo period. Approximately 10 koku of rice, or about 1,500 kilograms, was carried from the Saku Basin in Shinshu to the mountainous areas of western Joshu.
Because rice was difficult to produce in the mountainous Joshu region, horses carried rice, miso, soy sauce, and other goods from Shinshu across the pass. In return, charcoal, Japanese paper, and other products from Joshu were transported toward Shinshu.
In 1631, the Shirai Checkpoint was established, and the route became an important secondary road connecting with the Nakasendo highway. Numerous travelers and packhorse drivers passed through the area. The traditional “Jikkoku Horse Driver’s Song”, once sung by the drivers as they traveled through the mountains, provides a glimpse into the lively atmosphere of the route in those days.
The pass also witnessed a significant episode during the Chichibu Incident of 1884, when some members of the Konmin-tō group crossed the pass while retreating. Jikkoku Pass has therefore played a role not only in transportation and trade but also in the history of changing times in Japan.
Today, the pass forms part of National Routes 299 and 462. An observation tower near the pass offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains within the Myogi-Arafune-Saku Kogen Quasi-National Park. On clear days, the expansive mountain ridges create an impressive panorama.
The scenery changes throughout the year. Spring brings fresh green foliage, summer is filled with deep green forests, autumn colors the mountains with vibrant foliage, and winter offers crisp air and snow-covered landscapes.
Because of its high elevation, the area is relatively cool even during summer. The refreshing mountain air makes it a pleasant place for walking and enjoying the surrounding scenery.
For visitors who want to experience the history of the pass more directly, walking along sections of the Old Jikkoku Highway is an excellent option.
The route begins at the parking area of Ueno Village Fureaikan and passes the remains of the Shirai Checkpoint before entering the mountain forest. Near the former checkpoint stands a huge Japanese yew tree designated as a natural monument of Gunma Prefecture. The tree is approximately 15 meters tall with a trunk circumference of about 2.6 meters and is traditionally said to have been planted by the local magistrate Kinbei Ōkōchi when the checkpoint was established.
Along the old road through the forest, visitors can also find Dosojin and other traditional roadside religious markers. Walking among these historical traces offers a sense of what the route may have looked like when travelers and packhorse drivers regularly crossed the mountains.
The trail passes through a narrow section cut through the mountain before continuing toward the Yagumizawa Forest Road. From the Seiryuso junction, the route loops back toward Ueno Village Fureaikan, allowing hikers to enjoy both the natural landscape and historical remains.
Ueno Village Fureaikan → approximately 10 minutes → Shirai Checkpoint Ruins → approximately 5 minutes → Old Jikkoku Highway Entrance → approximately 30 minutes → Mountain Cutting → approximately 50 minutes → Yagumizawa Forest Road → approximately 30 minutes → Seiryuso Junction → approximately 20 minutes → Ueno Village Fureaikan
Visitors arriving by car can use the parking area at Ueno Village Fureaikan. By public transportation, take a bus from JR Shinmachi Station bound for Ueno Village Fureaikan and get off at the final stop.
Nearby facilities include Ueno Village Fureaikan and the Ueno Village Craftsman Shop Kokage, where visitors can discover local specialties, handicrafts, and other products from the area. They are also convenient places to stop and rest after a hike.
The section of National Route 299 crossing Jikkoku Pass is known for its narrow and winding mountain roads. Some sections are challenging enough that the route is sometimes informally referred to in Japan as a “kokudo,” or notoriously difficult national route.
Large vehicles cannot use some sections, and even two ordinary passenger cars may have difficulty passing one another. Although the road is paved, gravel and loose sand may be present on the surface, so drivers should proceed carefully.
The route may also be closed because of landslides caused by typhoons or heavy rain. During winter, it is generally closed from around late December through early April because of snow.
There have also been extended closures in recent years following natural disasters. Restoration work has enabled travel between Gunma and Nagano again, but road conditions can change depending on weather and construction. Visitors are strongly advised to check the latest road information before setting out.
Plans are also underway to improve National Route 299 through the development of the Jikkoku Road project, with the aim of improving safety and accessibility in the future.
Jikkoku Pass is much more than a boundary between two prefectures. For centuries, it was an important route connecting Shinshu and Joshu and supported the movement of goods and people through the mountains.
Walking along the quiet sections of the old highway makes it possible to imagine the packhorse drivers and travelers who once made their way through these forests and mountain passes.
With its rich natural scenery and fascinating history, Jikkoku Pass offers an appealing experience for hikers, scenic drivers, and travelers interested in Japan’s historic mountain routes. From fresh spring greenery to autumn foliage and crisp winter landscapes, each season reveals a different side of this remarkable mountain pass.