Nozawana is a traditional leafy vegetable that originated in Nozawaonsen Village in northern Nagano Prefecture. A member of the mustard family, it has been closely connected with the region’s food culture and way of life for centuries.
The most famous product made from Nozawana is Nozawana-zuke, a traditional Japanese pickle made from the vegetable’s leaves and stems. It is widely enjoyed throughout Japan and is often regarded, together with takana and Hiroshima-na, as one of Japan’s three major traditional pickling greens.
The beautiful fields where Nozawana grows, together with the traditional methods used to prepare its pickles, offer visitors a glimpse into the simple and deeply rooted food culture of Shinshu.
The history of Nozawana is traditionally traced back to the mid-18th century. According to local tradition, in 1756, the head priest of Kenmeiji Temple in Nozawaonsen traveled to Kyoto to study.
During his journey, he is said to have brought back seeds of a turnip cultivated around Tennoji in Osaka. The seeds were planted within the temple grounds, and the resulting vegetable gradually developed into what is now known as Nozawana.
The seeds became known as “Teradane,” or “temple seeds.” They were reportedly traded at high prices as an original strain, suggesting that they were already considered valuable in the local community.
Nozawana is generally classified as a type of leaf turnip, a variety closely related to the common turnip. Botanically, it is considered part of a European-derived turnip lineage and is thought to be related to cold-resistant varieties traditionally grown in mountainous areas of eastern Japan.
Today, Nozawana is cultivated in many parts of Japan, from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu, including Kumamoto. Nevertheless, Nozawaonsen remains regarded as the traditional home of Nozawana.
Nozawana is mainly sown in autumn and harvested before the arrival of winter. Seeds are generally planted around September, and the young plants are thinned several times as they grow.
The thinned young leaves can be eaten as lightly pickled vegetables or boiled greens. From approximately October through December, the mature plants are harvested and primarily used to make Nozawana-zuke.
After harvesting, new shoots can emerge again in spring. These young shoots, known as tōtachi-na, can also be eaten. Other spring-grown varieties are used for lightly pickled vegetables as well.
When some Nozawana plants are left unharvested, they bloom with bright yellow flowers in spring, creating beautiful fields of blossoms.
In particular, Nozawaonsen Village has developed Nozawana flower fields as part of its tourism attractions. The scenery offers visitors a beautiful view of the changing seasons and the agricultural landscape of northern Nagano.
The spring landscape is also reminiscent of the natural scenery celebrated in “Oborozukiyo,” a famous Japanese school song by Tatsuyuki Takano. The fields provide a vivid connection between local agriculture, traditional culture, and the seasonal beauty of Shinshu.
Nozawana-zuke is made by harvesting the vegetable and cutting away the roots in the field before washing it in hot spring water from Nozawaonsen.
This traditional washing process is known as “ona-arai,” literally “washing the greens.” It has traditionally been carried out at communal bathhouses in the village, creating a unique connection between the production of food and Nozawaonsen’s long-standing hot spring bathing culture.
Seasoning methods vary from household to household. There are two main styles: hon-zuke, a longer pickle that gradually develops a characteristic amber-brown color, and asa-zuke, a lightly pickled version that retains its fresh green color.
Nozawana-zuke is known for its relatively gentle lactic fermentation and mild aroma. It has a light, refreshing taste rather than the strong fermented flavor found in some other Japanese pickles.
The flavor becomes increasingly sour as the pickle is stored, so refrigeration is generally used to control its condition.
Nozawana-zuke can be enjoyed straight from the jar, but it is also extremely versatile. It can be stir-fried, mixed into fried rice, added to natto, used as an onigiri filling, or simmered into a tsukudani-style side dish.
Because Nozawana-zuke is enjoyed throughout the year, the vegetables used by producers may come from different parts of Japan depending on the season.
October–December: Nagano Prefecture
January: Tokushima Prefecture
February: Shizuoka Prefecture
March–May: Yamanashi and Nagano Prefectures, using tunnel cultivation
June: Ibaraki Prefecture
July–September: The foothills of the Yatsugatake Mountains through the Togakushi area of Nagano Prefecture
This seasonal rotation of production areas helps maintain a stable supply of Nozawana throughout the year.
In 1983, Nagano Prefecture designated Nozawana-zuke as a “cultural heritage of Shinano’s food traditions” as part of efforts to preserve the region’s traditional food culture.
The designation highlights the cultural importance of the pickling tradition and its connection with the everyday lives of local communities.
The connection between Nozawana and tourism became particularly strong during the Taisho period (1912–1926), when a ski resort was established in Nozawaonsen and increasing numbers of visitors arrived from urban areas.
These visitors became familiar with the pickled turnip greens locally called kabuna and began referring to them as Nozawana-zuke, using the name of the village where they encountered them. This is traditionally considered one of the origins of the name used today.
Even now, Nozawana seeds are popular souvenirs, reflecting the close relationship between the vegetable, the local hot spring culture, and the identity of Nozawaonsen.
Nozawana is much more than a traditional vegetable. It is a symbol of the relationship between the natural environment of Shinshu, agriculture, hot spring culture, and everyday life in northern Nagano.
Its long history, distinctive cultivation methods, traditional pickling techniques, and role as a local specialty all reflect the character of the region.
When visiting Nozawaonsen, be sure to try freshly prepared Nozawana-zuke and, if possible, experience the traditional ona-arai culture in which the vegetable is washed using the village’s hot spring water.
Tasting Nozawana-zuke while surrounded by the mountains and historic hot spring town of Nozawaonsen is a simple but memorable way to experience the food culture of Shinshu.