Taima-dera Nakanobo is the oldest of the subtemples at Taima-dera, located in Katsuragi City, Nara Prefecture. Its origins date back to the Hakuho period (late 7th century). According to tradition, it was established by En no Gyoja, the legendary founder of Shugendo, as a place for ascetic training when Taima-dera was first founded.
During the Nara period, under the 11th-generation abbot Jitsuga, who served as a teacher to Princess Chujo, the residence was developed as the temple’s principal abbot’s quarters, known as Chuin Gobo. From then on, Nakanobo served as the leading subtemple and played a central role in maintaining the entire Taima-dera complex. In the early 9th century, the 14th-generation abbot Jitsuben received teachings from Kobo Daishi Kukai. This strengthened Taima-dera’s identity as a sacred center of Shingon esoteric Buddhism. Today, Nakanobo remains an important head temple of the Koyasan Shingon school and a center of devotion to both Kobo Daishi and Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion.
Nakanobo is closely associated with Princess Chujo, a legendary figure revered for her devotion to Buddhism and her connection to the Taima Mandala. Tradition holds that she resolved to renounce worldly life, shaved her head, and undertook religious training here.
The Shaving Hall, or Teihatsu-do, commemorates this event. Its principal image is a 10th-century statue of Eleven-Headed Kannon, designated an Important Art Object. Known affectionately as Michibiki Kannon, or the Guiding Kannon, the statue is worshipped as a compassionate guide who leads people toward the right path in life.
A five-colored cord is tied to the statue’s right hand and extends to the front of the hall. Visitors can touch the cord and join their hands in prayer, symbolically connecting with Kannon and entrusting their wishes to the bodhisattva.
One of Nakanobo’s principal attractions is Koguen Garden, designated a National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty. Its foundations date to the Momoyama period. In the early Edo period, the garden was renovated into its present form by Katagiri Sekishu, a renowned tea master, in preparation for a visit by Emperor Gosai.
The garden consists of inner and outer sections. At its heart is a pond shaped like the Chinese character for “heart.” The pond represents a jeweled pool in the Buddhist Pure Land, while the East and West Pagodas of Taima-dera, both National Treasures, serve as borrowed scenery and symbolize sacred pagodas. Together, these elements create a contemplative landscape inspired by the Pure Land of Amida Buddha.
The garden also demonstrates a sophisticated use of space. Low earthen walls allow the grounds to feel deeper and more expansive than their actual size. Along with Gunpo-en Garden at Chikurin-in and the garden at Jiko-in, Koguen has long been counted among the Three Great Gardens of Yamato. In 1934, it became one of the first cultural properties in Nara Prefecture to receive national designation as both a Historic Site and a Place of Scenic Beauty.
Seasonal flowers and foliage bring changing colors throughout the year. Visitors can stroll through the garden at a leisurely pace, enjoying its tranquil atmosphere and carefully composed views.
Overlooking Koguen Garden stands the Shoin, an early Edo-period building in the traditional shoin-zukuri architectural style. It is designated an Important Cultural Property. Its principal room, known as Miyuki no Ma, is traditionally said to be where Emperor Gosai stayed during his visit. The room’s painted sliding screens are attributed to Soga Nijoan.
Within the Shoin is Marumado-seki, a tea room also designated an Important Cultural Property. Its most distinctive feature is a large circular window on the north side, approximately 1.8 meters in diameter. The tokonoma alcove is deliberately small, making efficient use of the limited space. The room reflects Katagiri Sekishu’s distinctive aesthetic, including the unconventional use of bamboo, a material that Sen no Rikyu is said to have disliked.
The Reihoden Treasure Hall displays temple treasures dating from the Hakuho and Nara periods through modern times, with exhibits rotated periodically. Among its most notable objects is the Chujo-hime Shaving Razor, traditionally regarded as Japan’s oldest razor. It is on permanent display and attracts considerable interest from visitors.
During the spring special exhibition, visitors may also have the opportunity to see the Shosan Jodo-kyo, a Buddhist scripture scroll from the Nara period traditionally attributed to Princess Chujo herself. These exhibits offer a closer understanding of the temple’s history and the faith surrounding the princess.
The Tracing-Buddha Hall, a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, is known for its magnificent painted ceiling, featuring approximately 150 panels. Works by prominent modern and contemporary artists, including Maeda Seison, cover the ceiling and create an atmosphere that is both serene and richly decorative.
Visitors can take part in activities such as copying the Shosan Jodo-kyo associated with Princess Chujo or tracing Buddhist figures depicted in the Taima Mandala. These experiences offer a meaningful opportunity to reflect on Buddhist teachings and prayers for rebirth in the Pure Land.
Nakanobo is especially famous for its spring peonies. Approximately 1,200 peony plants grow within the grounds, producing large, magnificent blossoms from late April to early May. Often called the “king of flowers,” the peony is one of the garden’s most celebrated seasonal highlights.
Other flowers add color throughout the year, including azaleas, white wisteria, hydrangeas, rose of Sharon, and Chinese bellflowers. The changing floral displays bring a sense of peace and beauty to the temple grounds in every season.
Nakanobo is also associated with the origins of Darani-suke, a traditional Japanese herbal medicine regarded as one of the country’s oldest preparations of its kind. According to tradition, En no Gyoja developed it during the Asuka period. Once regarded as a remedy for a wide range of ailments, it is now commonly used as a digestive medicine.
The temple grounds preserve a large iron cauldron once used to prepare the medicine until 1982. It recalls the former practice of boiling the ingredients during the coldest part of winter while monks recited Buddhist scriptures, linking the temple’s religious traditions with everyday life.
Taima-dera Nakanobo brings together Buddhist faith, history, garden design, and hands-on cultural experiences. Closely connected with the Taima Mandala and the devotion surrounding Princess Chujo, it offers visitors a chance to explore the spiritual traditions of the temple while enjoying its historic buildings, seasonal flowers, and tranquil gardens. A quiet walk through the grounds provides an opportunity to reflect on the Buddhist vision of the Pure Land and experience a particularly peaceful side of Nara’s cultural heritage.