Toko-ji Temple is a historic Buddhist temple in Inami Town, Hidaka District, Wakayama Prefecture. Located along the historic Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, the temple has been closely connected with local religious traditions and the lives of the people of Inami for centuries.
Toko-ji has traditionally been regarded as a place to pray for long life, good health, and protection during life’s journey. In the past, pilgrims traveling toward the sacred sites of Kumano could stop here to rest, pray, and seek spiritual comfort.
The temple also has a strong connection with local customs. It is sometimes known as a “naming temple” because of the traditional practice of having a newly born child receive a name from the resident priest, accompanied by prayers for the child’s healthy growth.
With its ancient trees, stone monuments, Buddhist statues, and fascinating legends, Toko-ji offers visitors an opportunity to discover a quieter side of Wakayama’s spiritual and cultural heritage.
Toko-ji is particularly famous as one of the places associated with the medieval Japanese tale of Oguri Hangan and Terute-hime. The story became widely known through medieval literature and later traditional performing arts such as joruri puppet theater and kabuki.
According to the legend, Oguri Hangan and Terute-hime stopped at Toko-ji while traveling toward the sacred Kumano region.
Oguri Hangan had been poisoned and was close to death. During their journey, he received a divine message telling him that he could be saved by making a pilgrimage to the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. With Terute-hime supporting him, he continued toward Kumano.
During their stay at Toko-ji, Oguri is said to have prayed to Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing and medicine. He remained at the temple in prayer for 21 days, seeking recovery from his illness.
Terute-hime is said to have collected small stones every day and written Buddhist scriptures on them, offering them to Yakushi Nyorai as part of her prayers for Oguri’s recovery.
When the period of prayer was completed, Yakushi Nyorai is said to have appeared and given them a message: Oguri would recover if he underwent healing treatment at Yunomine in Kumano.
The couple then resumed their journey toward Kumano.
This legend is a powerful reminder that the Kumano Kodo was much more than an old road. For generations of pilgrims, it was a spiritual journey associated with prayer, healing, renewal, and the hope of beginning life anew.
One of the most impressive sights at Toko-ji is the enormous nagi tree standing near the entrance to the temple grounds.
The tree is estimated to be more than 700 years old and is designated as a cultural property by Wakayama Prefecture. It is considered to be the second-oldest nagi tree in Wakayama Prefecture after the famous nagi at Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine.
The tree has a trunk circumference of approximately 4 meters and reaches around 20 meters in height. Standing beneath this ancient tree gives visitors a sense of the enormous amount of time that has passed since it first began growing.
The inside of the trunk has become hollow over the centuries, creating a large cavity spacious enough for several adults to enter. Its unusual form is one of the most memorable features of the temple grounds.
The Japanese word nagi sounds similar to “nagi,” meaning calm seas. For this reason, nagi trees have traditionally been associated with prayers for safe voyages and protection at sea.
This belief has particular significance in Inami, a community with a long connection to fishing and the sea. The tree came to symbolize wishes for a peaceful life and protection from rough waters.
There is also a traditional custom of carrying nagi leaves as protective charms. The ancient tree at Toko-ji therefore represents not only nature, but also the hopes and beliefs of generations of local residents.
Another important historical feature of the temple is a Hokyoin-to stone pagoda, which is designated as a cultural property by Inami Town.
The stone monument retains architectural characteristics associated with the Kamakura period and is considered particularly valuable because it is the only known stone structure from this period remaining in the town.
It is believed that the pagoda was originally part of a sutra mound established along the Kumano Kodo. Such monuments were associated with the practice of preserving Buddhist scriptures and making religious offerings.
The pagoda provides an important physical link between Toko-ji and the history of pilgrimage in the region. Its surviving form also offers visitors a glimpse into the stone-carving traditions of medieval Japan.
Inside the Kannon-do Hall is an unusual Buddhist image known as the Boat Kannon. Rather than being depicted in a conventional standing or seated form, the statue is represented on a sailing boat carrying 33 Kannon figures.
Waves are carved into the base of the boat, creating a distinctive image closely connected with the sea.
The statue is believed to have been dedicated by the people of Inami, particularly those whose lives depended on fishing and maritime activities. They prayed for safe voyages, protection at sea, and abundant catches.
Boat-shaped Buddhist imagery is relatively unusual, making this statue an especially interesting example of how Buddhist faith became intertwined with the local culture and livelihoods of a coastal community.
The Boat Kannon is carefully preserved as a secret Buddhist image, or hibutsu, reflecting the deep reverence with which it has traditionally been treated.
Toko-ji is also associated with a traditional healing practice involving loquat leaves. According to local tradition, Oguri Hangan used a bath containing loquat leaves while staying at the temple and found relief from his suffering.
Before modern medicine became widely available, temples often served not only as places of worship but also as places where people sought relief from illness and physical suffering. Toko-ji preserves memories of this aspect of traditional temple culture.
Until relatively recent times, people reportedly visited the temple to take baths prepared with loquat leaves. In traditional Japanese folk medicine, loquat leaves were believed to have medicinal properties and were used in various ways, including as herbal preparations and external treatments.
Whether viewed as a religious tradition, a form of folk medicine, or an example of local history, the loquat-leaf bathing tradition offers an intriguing glimpse into how temples once played a role in the everyday health and well-being of their communities.
For centuries, Toko-ji has served as a place of spiritual refuge for people traveling along the Kumano Kodo. The temple’s peaceful grounds, ancient trees, stone monuments, and Buddhist images create an atmosphere quite different from that of modern tourist attractions.
Walking through the grounds while imagining the pilgrims who once traveled this route can provide a deeper appreciation of the history of the Kumano pilgrimage.
The story of Oguri Hangan and Terute-hime is particularly meaningful in this context. Their journey was not simply a physical trip to Kumano; it was also a journey of faith, healing, perseverance, and renewal.
For modern visitors, Toko-ji provides an opportunity to pause and reflect on these themes while experiencing the quiet atmosphere of a historic Japanese temple.
Address: 2332 Inami, Inami Town, Hidaka District, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan
By train: Approximately 10 minutes on foot from JR Inami Station.
By car: Approximately 10 minutes from the Inami Interchange on the Hanwa Expressway.
Admission: Free
Toko-ji Temple brings together the history of the Kumano Kodo, Buddhist faith, local maritime culture, and fascinating traditional legends. The ancient nagi tree recalls centuries of prayers for safe journeys, while the Boat Kannon reflects the deep connection between the people of Inami and the sea.
The Hokyoin-to stone pagoda offers a glimpse into medieval pilgrimage culture, while the story of Oguri Hangan and Terute-hime illustrates the enduring belief in Kumano as a place of healing and spiritual renewal.
When visiting Inami Town, take the time to explore this peaceful historic temple. A visit to Toko-ji can transform a simple stop along the Kumano Kodo into a meaningful encounter with the history, faith, legends, and everyday traditions of rural Japan.