Kozenji Temple is a historic Zen temple in Kamitonda Town, Nishimuro District, Wakayama Prefecture. Belonging to the Myoshinji branch of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, the temple is traditionally said to have been founded in 898.
With more than 1,200 years of history, Kozenji has long been an important place of worship for the local community. Today, it is especially famous for its enormous white seated Daruma statue, which has earned the temple the affectionate nickname “Daruma Temple.”
Located close to the historic Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, Kozenji is surrounded by forests and peaceful countryside. The temple offers much more than religious architecture: visitors can enjoy its beautiful seasonal garden, historic buildings, cultural treasures, and the striking white Daruma statue.
The first sight to capture the attention of many visitors is the temple’s enormous white seated Daruma statue, built in 1973.
Standing approximately 5 meters tall, the imposing statue can be seen from a considerable distance and has become one of the symbols of Kamitonda Town.
Daruma dolls in Japan are usually associated with the color red, making Kozenji’s giant white Daruma particularly distinctive. Against the blue sky and surrounding greenery, the white figure creates an impressive scene and has become a popular spot for photographs.
Kozenji is also counted among Japan’s Eight Famous Daruma Temples, attracting visitors interested in Daruma culture from throughout the country.
The Daruma represents Bodhidharma, the Indian monk traditionally regarded as the founder of Zen Buddhism in China. In Japan, Daruma has become a powerful symbol of perseverance, determination, and the ability to rise again after failure.
This idea is often expressed through the Japanese saying “Seven falls, eight rises.” It represents the belief that no matter how many times a person encounters difficulties, they should continue to stand up and try again.
Daruma is also associated with longevity. As a result, visitors pray for a wide variety of blessings, including success in examinations, prosperity in business, family safety, and recovery from illness.
At Kozenji, visitors can also find a Water-Pouring Daruma. People can pour water over the figure while making a wish, creating a distinctive and memorable form of prayer.
According to temple tradition, Kozenji was founded in 898 by a Buddhist priest known as Ryuto Hoin.
The temple was originally associated with Shingon Buddhism. During the Kamakura period, however, it was influenced by Jakushin Zenji, the monk associated with the founding of Kokokuji Temple in Yura. Kozenji subsequently became a Zen temple.
It eventually developed into a temple of the Rinzai school’s Myoshinji branch, the tradition it belongs to today.
The temple is said to have been destroyed by fire during Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s campaign in Kishu during the late sixteenth century.
It was later restored in the early Edo period by Nanryu Zenji, the third abbot of Kaizoji Temple in Tanabe.
From that time onward, generations of monks and local residents worked together to preserve the temple, allowing its religious traditions to continue into the present day.
Kozenji also developed a close relationship with the Kishu Domain and the Ando family, who served as lords of the Tanabe Domain.
It was respected as a temple where the domain lords and their families offered prayers.
More than 100 historical documents known as the “Kozenji Documents” are preserved by the temple. These materials provide valuable information about the history of the temple and the surrounding community and have been designated as cultural properties of Kamitonda Town.
The main hall enshrines the Shaka Triad, a group of Buddhist images centered on Shakyamuni Buddha. Other important figures include an image of Daruma and a wooden statue of Nanryu Zenji.
The temple also carefully preserves a standing statue of Shō Kannon, the Sacred Kannon, which has been designated as a cultural property of Kamitonda Town.
Inside the main hall, the quiet atmosphere typical of a Zen temple provides a peaceful contrast to the dramatic Daruma statue outside. Visitors can take a moment to slow down, observe the traditional architecture, and experience the contemplative atmosphere of the temple.
Behind the main hall and priests’ quarters lies Tenshin-en, a traditional Japanese strolling garden designed around a pond.
The garden can be enjoyed by walking slowly along its paths and observing the changing scenery from different viewpoints. Its character changes throughout the year, making it a particularly attractive part of the temple grounds.
Spring is one of the most beautiful seasons at Kozenji. Azaleas, rhododendrons, and peonies bloom throughout the grounds, creating vivid displays of color.
The period from approximately mid-April to early May is especially attractive, when the temple grounds are filled with flowering plants.
The temple is sometimes described as a “Temple of Flowers” because of the beauty of its seasonal blooms.
In early summer, hydrangeas add fresh colors to the temple grounds.
The combination of flowers, greenery, water, and traditional architecture creates a peaceful atmosphere that is particularly enjoyable on a quiet morning.
In autumn, Japanese maple trees turn brilliant shades of red and yellow. The colorful leaves contrast beautifully with the quiet Zen architecture and pond garden.
Walking through the garden during the autumn season offers a particularly serene experience, with the changing foliage reflected in the water.
During the spring flowering season, the garden may also be illuminated at night.
The atmosphere changes completely after sunset. The softly lit flowers and traditional temple buildings create an enchanting landscape that is very different from the daytime scenery.
The kuri, or priests’ quarters and kitchen area, is another important architectural feature of Kozenji.
The existing building dates from 1831, during the late Edo period. It is a single-story structure with a gabled roof at the front and a hipped-and-gabled roof at the rear.
One of its distinctive features is the smoke vent built into the roof, reflecting the building’s traditional function as part of a Zen temple complex.
Inside, the earthen-floored area rises all the way to the ceiling, creating a dramatic and spacious interior.
The rooms facing the garden include a broad engawa veranda, where people can sit and enjoy the seasonal scenery.
The building is valued not only as historic architecture but also as an important component of the traditional temple landscape along the Kumano Kodo.
Within the temple grounds stands a building known as Chisoku-an. It was originally constructed during the Edo period as a retreat for Ryosui Zenji.
Today, the building is used for various activities, including Buddhist talks, meditation sessions, and other gatherings.
Chisoku-an is also associated with a touching story about Ryosui Zenji and his beloved horse, known as Kozenji-go.
Ryosui Zenji enjoyed the support of the powerful Ando family, who served as lords of the Tanabe Domain, and was given the horse as a gift.
The horse faithfully accompanied the Zen master whenever he traveled and became an important companion in his daily life.
According to the story, when Ryosui Zenji died in 1696, the horse stopped eating. On the day of the memorial service held 49 days after the Zen master’s death, the horse is said to have quietly passed away as well.
The story of this remarkable bond between monk and horse has been preserved through a commemorative monument and stone statue on the temple grounds.
Kozenji sometimes offers Zen meditation experiences for visitors.
Sitting quietly in meditation inside the peaceful environment of the temple provides an opportunity to step away from the pace of everyday life and turn one’s attention inward.
Zen meditation is not simply a tourist activity. It offers visitors a chance to experience one aspect of Japanese Buddhist culture directly, while learning the value of stillness, concentration, and mindful awareness.
For travelers exploring the Kumano region, a meditation experience at Kozenji can provide a meaningful complement to hiking the Kumano Kodo.
On the last Sunday of April each year, Kozenji holds its Daruma Festival and Memorial Service for the War Dead.
Many visitors gather at the temple for Buddhist memorial ceremonies and the traditional honoring and disposal of Daruma dolls.
The festival provides an opportunity to experience the living religious culture of the temple rather than simply viewing its historic buildings.
From approximately mid-April through early May, the temple garden may also be illuminated in the evening, allowing visitors to enjoy a magical nighttime view of the flowers and traditional temple landscape.
Kozenji is located close to the Kumano Kodo and has long stood within the cultural landscape of pilgrims traveling through the region.
From the elevated temple grounds on the southern side of the Tonda River, visitors can enjoy views of the surrounding natural landscape.
Combining a visit to Kozenji with a walk along the Kumano Kodo offers an opportunity to experience several dimensions of the Kii Peninsula at once: pilgrimage, Buddhism, traditional architecture, gardens, nature, and local history.
After walking the ancient pilgrimage paths, the peaceful atmosphere of the temple provides a welcome place to rest and reflect.
Ichinose, Kamitonda Town, Nishimuro District, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan
Kozenji is approximately 30 minutes by car from the Nanki-Tanabe Interchange on the Hanwa Expressway.
The drive takes travelers through the scenic countryside of southern Wakayama, making the journey itself part of the experience.
From Asso Station on the JR Kisei Main Line, also known as the Kinokuni Line, the temple is approximately 10 minutes by taxi.
Kozenji is a rare destination where more than 1,200 years of Buddhist history meet a five-meter-tall white Daruma, a beautiful Japanese garden, historic architecture, and the cultural landscape of the Kumano Kodo.
The temple offers something for many different types of travelers. Those interested in Japanese history can explore its long connection with the Kishu and Tanabe domains. Garden lovers can enjoy the seasonal flowers of Tenshin-en. Photography enthusiasts can capture the striking white Daruma against the surrounding greenery. And visitors seeking a quieter experience can take part in Zen meditation or simply sit in the peaceful temple grounds.
For travelers exploring Kamitonda Town and the Kumano Kodo, Kozenji is a particularly rewarding stop. Its distinctive Daruma statue may be what first catches the eye, but the deeper appeal lies in the centuries of faith, history, nature, and community preserved within the temple grounds.