The Ninety-Nine Oji are a group of small shrines and sacred sites located along the Kumano Kodo, particularly along the Nakahechi and Kii Routes. During the medieval period, they served as important spiritual waypoints for pilgrims traveling toward the sacred Kumano Sanzan, the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano.
From the late Heian period through the Kamakura period, retired emperors, members of the imperial family, and aristocrats made repeated pilgrimages to Kumano. So many people traveled the route that the journeys became known as the “Ants’ Pilgrimage to Kumano”, a reference to the seemingly endless stream of pilgrims.
The Oji were far more than simple resting places. Pilgrims stopped at these sacred sites to purify themselves, offer prayers, make offerings, and seek the protection of the deities of Kumano.
There were once many Oji along the pilgrimage routes. Within present-day Nakahechi Town in Tanabe, 13 Oji sites are known, many of which survive today as historic sites, monuments, or sacred locations.
Scattered through the mountains and forests, these sites preserve traces of medieval pilgrimage culture and form an important part of the cultural landscape recognized as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, pilgrimage to Kumano became an especially important religious practice among members of the imperial family and the aristocracy.
The journey began in Kyoto and continued southward across the Kii Peninsula. Pilgrims had to cross steep mountains and difficult terrain before reaching the Kumano Sanzan. The journey was regarded as a form of spiritual purification, in which pilgrims sought to cleanse themselves of worldly impurities and pray for salvation.
At the Oji, pilgrims performed religious rites such as offering sacred gifts, chanting Buddhist sutras, and presenting music and other forms of ritual entertainment. These activities allowed pilgrims to purify themselves physically and spiritually as they continued toward Kumano.
The mountain section from Takijiri-oji toward Kumano Hongu Taisha was known as the “Mountain” or “Sacred Mountain Realm” and was regarded as the sacred domain of Kumano Gongen.
For medieval pilgrims, entering this mountainous region meant more than simply continuing along a road. They were believed to be crossing into a sacred world, leaving ordinary life behind as they approached the realm of the Kumano deities.
After the Jokyu Disturbance of 1221, the influence of the imperial court gradually declined, and large-scale imperial pilgrimages to Kumano became less frequent. Many Oji subsequently fell into decline.
Later, the Meiji government’s policies of shrine consolidation and the modernization and development of local communities caused many former shrine sites to disappear. Nevertheless, numerous monuments, stone markers, and archaeological traces remain in Nakahechi, allowing visitors today to glimpse the history of Kumano pilgrimage.
Several distinctive historic stone structures can be found at the Oji sites of Nakahechi, including green schist monuments and machiishi sotoba, or stone distance markers.
The green schist monuments were erected by the Kishu Domain in 1723 to commemorate and preserve the locations of Oji that had already fallen into decline.
Examples remain at sites such as Omon-oji, Hisohara-oji, and Nakanokawa-oji. These monuments demonstrate that even during the Edo period, there was an awareness of the importance of preserving the historic pilgrimage landscape.
Machiishi sotoba are stone markers that served as distance indicators along the pilgrimage route. They were traditionally placed at intervals of one cho, an old Japanese unit of distance, helping travelers understand how far they had come and how far remained to their destination.
Many of the surviving examples date from the late Kamakura period. They provide valuable evidence of how the pilgrimage routes were organized and maintained in medieval Japan.
Among the Oji of Nakahechi, Takijiri-oji has traditionally held an especially important position.
It was regarded as the entrance to the sacred realm of Kumano. Historical records describe the site as a place where pilgrims entered the sacred mountains, marking an important transition in the pilgrimage.
The name “Takijiri” is traditionally associated with the meeting of the rapid waters of the Iwata River and Ishibune River, whose rushing waters were said to create a sound resembling a waterfall.
Before entering the mountains, pilgrims performed a ritual purification known as kori, or ritual ablution.
The Iwata River was believed to flow from the Pure Land of Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, while the Ishibune River was associated with the Pure Land of Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing.
By washing themselves in these sacred waters, pilgrims believed that their sins and impurities could be cleansed before entering the sacred mountains.
An old account describes the two rivers as sacred waters associated respectively with Kannon and with healing. Such traditions illustrate the deep religious significance attached to Takijiri-oji.
Takijiri-oji was also a place where aristocratic pilgrims held poetry gatherings.
Emperor Go-Toba, who made numerous pilgrimages to Kumano, held poetry gatherings during his journeys. Poems composed on these occasions were written down in works known as the Kumano Kaishi, which survive as important examples of medieval Japanese literary culture.
Composed amid the deep mountains of Kumano, these poems express not only religious devotion but also the emotions and impressions of travelers encountering the remote landscape.
Takijiri-oji was not simply a shrine. It was also connected with ancient forms of mountain worship and the belief that certain natural rocks possessed sacred power.
Large rocks can be found around the site, including sacred stones known as Chichi-iwa and the rock passage called Tainai-kuguri, or “womb passage.”
Passing through the narrow rock passage has traditionally been associated with rebirth and safe childbirth. Surrounded by dense forest, these features contribute to the mysterious and spiritual atmosphere of Takijiri-oji.
Chikatsuyu-oji stood in Chikatsuyu, one of the most important settlements along the Nakahechi route.
Located roughly halfway between Tanabe and Kumano Hongu, Chikatsuyu served as an important place for pilgrims to stay overnight and perform purification rituals.
The settlement developed along the Hiki River, with inns and other facilities serving travelers on the ancient pilgrimage route. Today, the area retains the atmosphere of a peaceful mountain village and remains a popular destination for people walking the Kumano Kodo.
The name Chikatsuyu is associated with a fascinating legend involving Emperor Kazan, who is said to have traveled to Kumano on pilgrimage.
According to the story, the emperor forgot his chopsticks during the journey and broke a stem of grass to use instead. Red liquid began to drip from the stem, prompting him to ask, “Is it blood or dew?”
This story is one of many legends associated with the Kumano Kodo and illustrates how the route developed as a cultural landscape filled with stories, beliefs, and memories of pilgrims.
Tsugizakura-oji is one of the most atmospheric Oji sites along the Nakahechi route.
The shrine is surrounded by a dense grove of towering cedar trees, creating a quiet and almost mystical atmosphere. Travelers walking the Kumano Kodo often remember the site for its enormous trees and secluded setting.
The name Tsugizakura is traditionally connected with a remarkable tree in which a cherry tree was said to have grown from the trunk of a hinoki cypress.
This unusual phenomenon was known for centuries and was already mentioned in pilgrimage records from the twelfth century.
The present tree is a successor to the original, but the tradition has continued to be preserved as an important symbol of the Kumano pilgrimage. In spring, its delicate blossoms add another layer of beauty to the ancient route.
Near Tsugizakura-oji stands a famous group of enormous cedars known as the One-Sided Cedars of Nonaka.
The trees are distinctive because their branches extend predominantly in the same direction. Their unusual appearance has made them one of the memorable natural features of the Nakahechi route.
The grove is also closely associated with the conservation work of Minakata Kumagusu, the renowned naturalist and folklorist from Wakayama. His efforts to protect shrine forests helped preserve this valuable natural landscape.
Near Tsugizakura-oji is Nonaka-no-Shimizu, a natural spring that has long provided fresh water to travelers along the pilgrimage route.
The clear spring continues to flow today, offering a refreshing reminder of how essential natural water sources were to pilgrims traveling through the mountains.
The route between Iwazaki Pass and Mikoshi Pass was historically regarded as one of the most difficult sections of the Nakahechi pilgrimage.
The mountain trail passed through dense forest, where leeches were common. One particularly feared section was known as “Hyaku-hachi-cho of Hirugidani”, a name reflecting the difficulty caused by the large number of leeches.
For medieval pilgrims, however, overcoming such difficult terrain was itself part of the spiritual discipline of the journey. Physical hardship was closely connected with religious purification and devotion.
Iwazaki-oji was located at the top of the steep Iwazaki Pass.
A small shrine is said to have stood here during the Edo period, but it later disappeared and its exact location was forgotten for many years.
The old route has since been rediscovered, allowing modern hikers to follow part of the historic pilgrimage path. Walking through the quiet mountain forest offers an opportunity to imagine the difficulties faced by medieval pilgrims and the strength of their faith.
Mikoshi Pass was regarded as an important boundary between the Kuchi-Kumano region and Oku-Kumano.
Beyond this point, pilgrims were considered to be entering the heart of the Kumano sacred region.
A checkpoint was also established here during the medieval period to regulate travelers using the pilgrimage route. Today, visitors can see a reconstructed version of the former checkpoint and learn more about the history of travel to Kumano.
From Mikoshi Pass, a branch of the Kumano Kodo known as Akagi-goe leads toward Yunomine Onsen, one of the region’s historic hot spring destinations.
The route became particularly popular during the early modern period. Compared with some of the steeper mountain sections, it follows a relatively accessible ridgeline.
Along the trail, visitors can still find traces of the old pilgrimage culture, including former teahouse sites, stone-paved sections, and Jizo statues.
The ridge is lined with vegetation such as Ubamegashi oak and pine trees, creating a scenic and atmospheric hiking route.
One of the most memorable sections of Akagi-goe is the steep slope known as Jigoku-zaka, or “Hell Slope.”
For pilgrims traveling centuries ago, reaching the top of such a difficult climb must have brought an enormous sense of relief. Modern hikers can experience a small part of that same physical challenge as they make their way toward Yunomine Onsen.
The Oji scattered throughout Nakahechi are much more than historic ruins.
They preserve the prayers, reverence for nature, spiritual beliefs, and pilgrimage traditions of people who traveled through the Kii Peninsula centuries ago.
Deep forests, clear springs, enormous sacred rocks, ancient stone monuments, and quiet mountain paths all form part of the spiritual landscape of Kumano.
Walking the Kumano Kodo is therefore not simply a journey through beautiful natural scenery. It is also an opportunity to encounter an important part of Japan’s spiritual and cultural heritage.
As you travel through Nakahechi, taking time to pause at the individual Oji sites can transform a hike into a deeper cultural experience. Each shrine, monument, forest, and mountain pass forms part of a much larger story that has been passed down for more than a thousand years.
For travelers exploring the Kumano Kodo in Tanabe’s Nakahechi area, the Ninety-Nine Oji offer a unique way to experience the pilgrimage route through the eyes of the people who once walked it. Beneath the forests and mountains of Kumano, the quiet atmosphere of these sacred sites continues to evoke the faith and hopes of generations of pilgrims.