Nakahechi, located in Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, is home to one of the most important routes of the Kumano Kodo, the ancient pilgrimage network through the Kii Peninsula.
For centuries, the Nakahechi Route has carried pilgrims toward the sacred Kumano Sanzan—Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Retired emperors, aristocrats, samurai, monks, and ordinary people all traveled these mountain paths with prayers in their hearts.
The Nakahechi Route runs from Kii-Tanabe toward Kumano Hongu Taisha. Traditionally, Takijiri-oji marked the point where pilgrims left the ordinary world and entered the sacred realm of Kumano.
Today, the route remains famous for its deep forests, clear streams, moss-covered stone paths, mountain villages, historic shrines, and quiet atmosphere. Walking through Nakahechi is not simply a hike—it is an opportunity to experience the spiritual history and natural beauty of the Kii Peninsula.
The name Nakahechi itself reflects the area’s connection with the historic Nakahechi route. Throughout the region, numerous Oji—sacred waypoints associated with the Kumano pilgrimage—remain, including Takijiri-oji, Daimon-oji, Osakamoto-oji, Chikatsuyu-oji, and Tsugizakura-oji.
For many travelers, the journey through the Nakahechi Route begins at Takijiri-oji.
Takijiri-oji is counted among the most important of the Kumano Oji, traditionally known as one of the Five Major Oji. For centuries, it has been revered as an important spiritual landmark on the pilgrimage route.
The shrine stands near the confluence of the Tonda River and Ishibune River, surrounded by cedar trees and the peaceful sounds of the forest.
The retired Emperor Go-Toba is also said to have held a poetry gathering here, connecting the site with the refined culture of medieval imperial pilgrimages to Kumano.
From Takijiri-oji onward, the route enters increasingly mountainous terrain. As pilgrims climb the stone steps and forest paths, the atmosphere changes noticeably. The sounds of everyday life gradually disappear, replaced by the quiet of the ancient forest.
Across from Takijiri-oji stands the Kumano Kodo Kan, an information and cultural facility dedicated to the history and traditions of the Kumano Kodo.
The center provides tourist information, historical exhibits, videos featuring local storytellers, a resting area, and Kumano Kodo-related goods.
Stopping here before beginning a hike can help visitors understand the history, religious traditions, and cultural background of the route. With this knowledge in mind, the ancient path becomes much more than a scenic hiking trail.
Not far from Takijiri-oji, hikers encounter a huge rock formation known as Tainai-kuguri, or the “womb passage.”
The narrow gap between the rocks can be passed through, an act traditionally interpreted as symbolizing rebirth. Local tradition also associates passing through the rock with blessings for safe childbirth.
Farther along the route is Chichi-iwa, or “Breast Rock,” which is associated with a dramatic legend involving Fujiwara no Hidehira of the Oshu Fujiwara clan.
According to the legend, Hidehira’s wife gave birth inside a cave while the family was traveling to Kumano. She left the baby behind while continuing toward Kumano, but the child was protected by milk dripping from the rock and by a wolf. The baby survived and grew safely.
This mysterious story is later connected with the legend of the Hidehira Cherry Tree, another memorable feature of the Nakahechi pilgrimage route.
After climbing from Takijiri-oji toward the Takahara area, visitors reach Takahara Kumano Shrine.
Although it is not counted among the Ninety-Nine Oji, the shrine is one of the historic sacred sites along the Kumano Kodo.
A Buddhist devotional object bearing a date corresponding to 1403 has survived here, providing evidence of the site’s long history. The shrine’s vermilion-lacquered structure with a traditional cypress-bark roof is regarded as one of the oldest surviving shrine buildings along the Kumano Kodo.
A magnificent camphor tree, said to be around 1,000 years old, also stands on the grounds, quietly witnessing the passage of centuries.
Nearby is a scenic resting area known as the “Village of Mist.”
From here, visitors can enjoy wide views toward the Hatenashi Mountain Range. On clear days, layers of mountains stretch across the horizon, while in the early morning and evening, mist can settle over the valleys to create an almost dreamlike landscape.
For hikers, this is an ideal place to pause, rest, and take in the scenery of the mountains they have been traveling through.
One of the most recognizable sights on the Nakahechi Route is the small stone statue known as Gyuba-doji.
Located at Hashiori Pass, the statue is only about 50 centimeters high. Its unusual form shows a small figure riding a cow while leading a horse, making it instantly recognizable.
The statue is traditionally believed to represent Emperor Kazan during his pilgrimage to Kumano and has become one of the best-known symbols of the Kumano Kodo.
The nearby place name Chikatsuyu is also connected with a legend about Emperor Kazan. According to tradition, the emperor broke a branch to use as chopsticks and saw red liquid dripping from it. He is said to have wondered whether it was “blood or dew,” giving rise to the name Chikatsuyu.
Chikatsuyu-oji stands in the historic settlement of Chikatsuyu, which once flourished as an important stopping point for Kumano pilgrims.
With its location roughly midway between Tanabe and Hongu, the settlement provided travelers with an opportunity to rest and prepare for the next stage of their journey.
The nearby Hiki River was also associated with ritual purification before continuing the pilgrimage.
Today, traditional houses and the quiet mountain landscape remain in the area, allowing visitors to imagine the atmosphere of the settlement during the age of the Kumano pilgrimage.
Tsugizakura-oji is one of the most atmospheric Oji along the Nakahechi Route.
After climbing a flight of stone steps, visitors reach a quiet shrine surrounded by enormous cedar trees known as the One-Sided Cedars of Nonaka.
Some of these trees are believed to be around 800 years old. Their branches extend predominantly toward the south, in the direction of Mount Nachi, which is why they became known as the “One-Sided Cedars.”
Their unusual forms have long been regarded as mysterious and sacred, and the grove is now designated as a Natural Monument of Wakayama Prefecture.
Tsugizakura-oji is also associated with the Nonaka Lion Dance, a traditional performing art said to have a history of approximately 700 years.
Passed down since the Northern and Southern Courts period, the dance is performed as a prayer for peace and protection in the local community.
Its continued performance demonstrates that the spiritual traditions of the Kumano Kodo are not merely relics of the past. They remain part of the living culture of the region.
Near Tsugizakura-oji is Nonaka-no-Shimizu, a famous natural spring that has provided fresh water to travelers for centuries.
The spring is included among Japan’s celebrated 100 Famous Water Sources and is traditionally said never to have run dry.
For pilgrims traveling long distances through the mountains, reliable springs such as this were essential sources of drinking water and places where travelers could pause and refresh themselves.
The poet Saito Mokichi also visited the spring and composed a poem commemorating the emperors who had traveled the Nakahechi route in ancient times.
Today, the combination of clear spring water and the peaceful surrounding forest creates a refreshing and tranquil stop along the pilgrimage route.
Near Tsugizakura-oji stands the Hidehira-zakura, or Hidehira Cherry Tree.
According to legend, Fujiwara no Hidehira was traveling to Kumano and prayed for the safety of his child. He planted the cherry branch that he had been using as a walking stick, and the branch is said to have taken root and grown into a tree.
The present tree is a successor to the original, but the legend continues to be associated with the site. When spring arrives, its blossoms add a beautiful seasonal touch to the ancient pilgrimage landscape.
A monument to the haiku poet Takahama Kyoshi also stands nearby, adding a literary dimension to the site’s historical and spiritual character.
The Nakahechi region is also associated with the famous Anchin and Kiyohime legend, one of the best-known tragic love stories in Wakayama.
Several sites connected with the story can be found in the area, including Kiyohime Pool, Kiyohime Nozoki Bridge, and Nejiri-gi Cedar.
The story tells of Kiyohime’s passionate love for the monk Anchin and the tragic events that followed. The tale eventually became closely associated with the story of Dojoji Temple.
During summer, the Kiyohime Festival brings the legend to life through dramatic performances.
One of the highlights is a spectacular procession featuring a dragon-like Kiyohime breathing fire as she moves through the festival grounds. A fireworks display adds to the excitement of the evening.
The festival provides a lively contrast to the quiet forests of the Kumano Kodo and shows how local legends continue to influence community traditions.
Near the traditional site associated with Kiyohime’s grave stands Ichiganji Temple, also known as Fukuganji.
The temple enshrines a Jizo statue known as the Ichigan Jizo, or “One-Wish Jizo.” It is believed that the deity will grant one sincere wish.
Because visitors traditionally offer mustard and sake to the Jizo, the figure is also known as Karashi Jizo, or “Mustard Jizo.”
The temple continues to attract worshippers not only from the local area but also from farther afield, making it another example of the living spiritual culture of Nakahechi.
On the grounds of Hosenji Temple stands the magnificent Great Ginkgo Tree of Fukusada.
The giant tree is estimated to be around 400 years old. It stands approximately 22 meters tall and has a trunk circumference of about 5.3 meters.
In autumn, the tree turns brilliant golden yellow. The best time to see the foliage is generally from mid- to late November.
Standing out dramatically against the surrounding mountain forest, the golden tree is one of the most beautiful symbols of autumn in Nakahechi.
Near Chikatsuyu is the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Museum of Art, a striking contemporary building designed by architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa.
The museum’s modern architecture provides an intriguing contrast to the ancient pilgrimage route surrounding it.
Inside, the museum displays works by artists associated with Nakahechi and the surrounding region. Large glass surfaces and open corridors also allow visitors to enjoy views of the natural landscape outside.
The museum is an excellent place to combine an appreciation of contemporary architecture and art with the traditional cultural landscape of the Kumano Kodo.
Located along National Route 311, Michi-no-Eki Kumano Kodo Nakahechi is a convenient stop for travelers exploring the region.
The roadside station offers local products, a rest area, and food facilities, making it useful for both hikers and travelers exploring the area by car.
Visitors can sample local specialties such as ume udon, sweetfish hijiki-style rice bowls, and mehari-zushi, a traditional rice ball wrapped in pickled mustard greens.
The roadside station also sells regional products including Chikatsuyu miso, tekka miso, handmade konnyaku, and a variety of plum products.
For travelers looking for a taste of the local culture or a souvenir to take home, the roadside station is a convenient place to discover the flavors of Nakahechi.
Nakahechi is much more than a hiking destination.
For more than a thousand years, the mountains and valleys of the region have been shaped by pilgrimage, religious belief, village life, traditional festivals, and people’s relationship with nature.
Walking along moss-covered stones, listening to birdsong in the forest, drinking from a clear mountain spring, and pausing at an ancient shrine can create a profound sense of peace.
The experience is particularly meaningful because the landscape itself is part of the heritage. The forests, mountains, rivers, shrines, villages, and pilgrimage paths are interconnected, creating a cultural landscape that cannot be separated from the history of Kumano worship.
The Nakahechi Route of the Kumano Kodo is therefore not simply a historic road preserved as a World Heritage Site. It remains a living path where people continue to walk, pray, explore, and connect with the mountains.
For travelers seeking a deeper experience of Japan beyond its major cities, walking the Nakahechi offers a chance to slow down and discover a quieter side of the country—one shaped by ancient pilgrimage, sacred forests, local traditions, and the enduring spiritual presence of Kumano.