Saba-zushi, or mackerel sushi, is a traditional dish in Tottori Prefecture with two distinct forms: fermented sushi and pressed sushi. In the upper reaches of the Sendai River, fermented saba-zushi has traditionally been prepared as a New Year’s dish, preserving an age-old food culture passed down through generations.
The fermented version of saba-zushi is a variation of narezushi, an early style of sushi made by fermenting fish with rice and salt. In this regional recipe, rice malt, known as koji, is added to encourage fermentation and contribute a gentle sweetness.
Originally, people preserved ayu, or sweetfish, caught in the Sendai River. As these fish became less readily available, the recipe evolved to use marine fish instead, particularly mackerel and mahi-mahi, also known in Japan as shiira.
To prepare the dish, mackerel is filleted into two sides, while mahi-mahi is cut into large portions. The fish is salted until it develops a relatively strong seasoning, then layered alternately with rice cooled to approximately body temperature and an equal quantity of rice koji. The layers are covered with a lid and weighted down to press the ingredients together.
The mixture is left to ferment for approximately two months. During this time, the koji develops a characteristic sweetness that balances the savory flavor of the fish and gives the sushi its distinctive taste. This slow fermentation method reflects the traditional practice of preserving seasonal catches for special occasions, particularly the New Year.
Alongside the fermented variety, Tottori is also known for a simpler style of saba-zushi made with fresh mackerel. In this version, seasoned fish is placed over sushi rice and pressed into a compact shape, producing the familiar form of oshizushi, or pressed sushi.
Unlike the fermented version, pressed mackerel sushi does not rely on a long fermentation period. Its appeal lies in the combination of fresh fish and vinegared rice, allowing the natural flavor of the mackerel to stand out.
Tottori’s two styles of saba-zushi reveal how local communities adapted traditional preservation techniques to changing fishing conditions and available ingredients. The fermented version offers a deeper, more complex flavor shaped by time and koji, while pressed sushi provides a fresher, more immediate taste of the sea.
For travelers interested in regional Japanese cuisine, trying these different styles is a rewarding way to discover Tottori’s food heritage and the ingenuity behind its traditional dishes.