The Nakasendo 69 Stations Museum is located in the Oiwake area of Karuizawa, Nagano Prefecture. The museum introduces the history, post-town culture, customs, and landscapes of the Nakasendo, one of the five major highways developed during Japan’s Edo period.
Through historical documents, ukiyo-e prints, maps, books, and other materials, the museum allows visitors to imagine what it was like to travel along the Nakasendo centuries ago.
The museum is directed by Yutaka Kishimoto, a writer known for his historical travel books. His publications include works such as Walking the 69 Stations of the Nakasendo and Walking the Hokkoku Kaido. His extensive knowledge of Japan’s historic highways is reflected throughout the museum’s exhibitions.
The museum is housed in a two-story building containing six exhibition rooms. Each room explores different aspects of the 69 post stations of the Nakasendo, including their landscapes, history, travelers, and local customs during the Edo period.
One of the most interesting displays compares ukiyo-e prints from the Edo period with photographs of the same locations today. This side-by-side presentation makes it easy to see how landscapes along the historic route have changed over the centuries while also revealing elements that have survived.
The museum houses a collection of historical books and reference materials that visitors can actually pick up and read. This hands-on approach makes the museum particularly appealing to travelers who want to explore the history of the Nakasendo in greater depth.
One especially valuable item is a reproduced edition of the Nakasendo Bunken Enzu, a detailed map traditionally associated with the Edo-period authorities responsible for overseeing the highways. The map provides a visual understanding of the route, its post towns, and the surrounding geography.
The museum grounds feature a distinctive outdoor display designed to give visitors a sense of traveling along the entire Nakasendo. Models representing the 69 post stations are arranged in the garden, allowing visitors to visualize the journey from Nihonbashi in Edo, present-day Tokyo, to Sanjo Ohashi in Kyoto.
The garden can also be viewed when the museum itself is closed, making it a unique feature for visitors exploring the Oiwake area.
The museum is open from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., with last admission at 4:30 p.m.
It is generally closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and during the winter season, approximately from December through March. During the rest of the year, it is open to visitors interested in the history of the Nakasendo and traditional Japanese travel.
Admission is 500 yen for adults, or 400 yen for groups, and 200 yen for junior and senior high school students.
An interesting feature is that an admission ticket can be used for up to two visits, making it possible to return and explore the exhibits again.
The Nakasendo was one of the five major highways officially developed during the Edo period. It connected Nihonbashi in Edo with Sanjo Ohashi in Kyoto, crossing the mountainous interior of central Japan.
Unlike the Tokaido, which followed a more coastal route along the Pacific side, the Nakasendo traveled inland through mountain regions. The route measured approximately 508 kilometers from Edo to Kusatsu and approximately 526 kilometers to Kyoto, with 69 post stations established along the way.
The Nakasendo was approximately 40 kilometers longer than the Tokaido and had 16 more post stations. One reason was the mountainous terrain and severe climate, which often limited how far travelers could walk in a single day.
The route included difficult sections such as Usui Pass, Wada Pass, and the Kiso no Kakehashi. Despite these challenges, the Nakasendo was heavily traveled.
For many travelers, the route offered practical advantages. Travel costs could be lower than on the Tokaido, while some travelers preferred to avoid river crossings such as those at the Oi and Abe Rivers. The Nakasendo also provided an alternative to the strict controls associated with the Tokaido, including regulations concerning the movement of weapons and women under the shogunate.
The Nakasendo crossed numerous mountain passes, each representing a challenge for travelers while also contributing to the route’s distinctive scenery and character.
Usui Pass lies between Sakamoto-juku and Karuizawa-juku and was one of the important mountain crossings on the eastern section of the Nakasendo.
Kasatori Pass connected Ashida-juku and Nagakubo-juku.
Wada Pass lies between Wada-juku and Shimosuwa-juku and was one of the most demanding crossings in the central section of the route.
Shiojiri Pass connected Shimosuwa-juku with Shiojiri-juku.
Torii Pass lies between Narai-juku and Yabuhara-juku in the Kiso Valley.
Magome Pass connected the historic post towns of Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku.
Other notable crossings included Jumoku Pass between Magome-juku and Ochiai-juku, Jusan Pass between Oi-juku and Ookuwa-juku, Biwa Pass between Ookuwa-juku and Hosokute-juku, Monomi Pass between Hosokute-juku and Mitake-juku, Utou Pass between Ota-juku and Unuma-juku, Imasu Pass between Sekigahara-juku and Imasu-juku, and Surihari Pass between Banba-juku and Toriimoto-juku.
The Nakasendo 69 Stations Museum offers a unique way to understand one of Japan’s most important historic highways. Its combination of ukiyo-e, modern photographs, historical maps, books, and miniature post stations makes the past easier to visualize than through documents alone.
For travelers interested in Japanese history, traditional roads, ukiyo-e, old maps, and walking journeys, the museum is an excellent place to begin exploring the Nakasendo around Karuizawa and Oiwake. A visit offers a chance to imagine the footsteps of travelers who once crossed the mountains between Edo and Kyoto.