Shiomi Nawate is a picturesque historic street in Matsue, Shimane Prefecture, stretching for approximately 500 meters along the Horikawa moat on the northern side of Matsue Castle. Lined with traditional samurai residences, the former home of Lafcadio Hearn, and the Meimei-an tea house, the street is one of the best places in Matsue to experience the atmosphere of a traditional Japanese castle town.
The area was designated by Matsue City as a Traditional Scenic Area in 1973 and was later selected as one of Japan’s 100 Best Roads in 1986. With its old pine trees, white walls, traditional buildings, and peaceful moat, Shiomi Nawate offers a glimpse into the elegant townscape of the Edo period.
The Japanese word nawate refers to a narrow, straight road that stretches like a piece of rope. The name was commonly used for similar roads in traditional Japanese castle towns.
The name Shiomi Nawate is believed to have originated from the residence of Shiomi Kohei, a senior-ranking samurai of the Matsue domain, which once stood near the center of the street. In the past, the road was so narrow that only a palanquin or a traditional handcart could pass through it with difficulty. Unlike today’s paved road, it was once a quiet route used by samurai and local residents in their daily lives.
During the Edo period, the area around Shiomi Nawate was a residential district for middle- and upper-ranking samurai who received stipends of approximately 500 to 1,000 koku. The koku was a traditional unit used to measure the rice income that formed the basis of a samurai’s stipend.
Matsue Castle was originally constructed under the direction of Horio Yoshiharu, the first lord of the Matsue domain. After Matsudaira Naomasa entered the domain in 1638, a planned residential district for samurai families was developed to the north of the castle.
The residences were arranged along the moat. Traditional samurai houses with white walls and imposing gates stood on the northern side, while the Horikawa moat and rows of pine trees stretched along the southern side. This carefully planned landscape brought together the formality of samurai residences and the refined aesthetic of a Japanese castle town.
One of the defining features of Shiomi Nawate is the scenery along the Horikawa moat. A row of old pine trees, said to have been planted during the Edo period, still lines the waterway today.
The street was carefully designed to preserve the beauty of these trees. In places where branches hang low, the walkway has been lowered to follow their natural shape. This attention to detail helps maintain the historic character of the street while creating a pleasant route for visitors.
Each season offers a different atmosphere. Spring brings fresh greenery, while summer creates cool shade beneath the mature pine trees. In autumn, crisp air and sunlight reflected on the water add a quiet beauty to the scene. Winter brings an especially serene atmosphere, making Shiomi Nawate an enjoyable place for a peaceful walk at any time of year.
The landscape around present-day Shiomi Nawate was once part of a continuous hilly area connecting Mt. Akayama with the hill where Matsue Castle stands. When Horio Yoshiharu constructed Matsue Castle during the Keicho era, the narrow section connecting the two hills was cut through over a width of approximately 90 meters.
This major earthwork separated the castle hill from the surrounding terrain and allowed the inner moat to be constructed at the same time. The excavated soil was then used to reclaim marshy areas around places such as Tamachi, helping create the foundations of the developing castle town.
The large-scale construction work is said to have begun in 1607 and been completed in just over a year. The project provides an impressive example of the engineering capabilities and determination involved in creating a major castle town during the early Edo period.
Shiomi Nawate has undergone careful preservation efforts to protect its historic scenery. In 1984, overhead utility lines were moved underground, removing much of the modern infrastructure from the streetscape.
Traffic signals and streetlights were also designed in a classic style that harmonizes with the surrounding historic buildings. These measures help preserve an atmosphere reminiscent of old Matsue and allow visitors to appreciate the relationship between the traditional architecture, pine trees, and moat.
Lafcadio Hearn’s Former Residence is one of the most important historic sites along Shiomi Nawate. Lafcadio Hearn, also known by his Japanese name Koizumi Yakumo, lived here with his wife Setsu for approximately six months in 1891.
The residence is a former samurai house and is designated as a National Historic Site. During his stay in Matsue, Hearn wrote many works about Japanese culture, including Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan.
One of the most memorable spaces is the nine-tatami-mat room that served as his living room. From here, a traditional Japanese garden can be viewed from three directions. The tranquil setting offers visitors a sense of the Japanese aesthetics and spirituality that deeply fascinated Hearn.
The Samurai Residence stands near the center of Shiomi Nawate. The building dates from the middle of the Edo period and has been preserved as a museum introducing the lifestyle of a middle-ranking samurai.
The main house, annexes, gatehouse, and garden have survived, providing an unusually detailed picture of a traditional samurai residence. The buildings are designated as cultural properties of Matsue City.
Inside, visitors can see objects associated with samurai life, including swords and spears, formal samurai clothing known as kamishimo, cosmetics, and traditional tooth-blackening equipment. These everyday objects provide a more personal perspective on life in an Edo-period castle town.
Meimei-an is a traditional tea house associated with Matsudaira Fumai, the seventh lord of the Matsue domain and a celebrated master of Japanese tea culture.
The tea house was relocated to its present hilltop location overlooking Matsue Castle. Its quiet setting offers an opportunity to experience the refined atmosphere of Japanese tea culture while appreciating the cultural heritage of Matsue.
A walk along Shiomi Nawate can feel like stepping into a scene from historical Japan. Traditional white-walled residences stand beside mature pine trees, while sightseeing boats quietly travel along the Horikawa moat.
The combination of water, greenery, traditional architecture, and carefully preserved streets creates the distinctive calm beauty of Matsue. Rather than being a single attraction, Shiomi Nawate is best appreciated as a historic landscape where several elements of the former castle town come together.
For visitors interested in Japanese history, samurai culture, traditional architecture, gardens, or the history of Lafcadio Hearn, the street provides an excellent introduction to Matsue’s heritage.
From JR Matsue Station, take the Lake Line sightseeing bus for approximately 15 minutes and get off at the Shiomi Nawate bus stop. The historic street is immediately accessible from the stop.
Shiomi Nawate is also close to Matsue Castle and several other cultural attractions, making it easy to include in a walking itinerary through the historic heart of Matsue. Visitors can combine a stroll through the castle town with museums, traditional tea culture, and the scenic waterways that have helped shape Matsue’s identity.
Shiomi Nawate is one of the places where the historic character of Matsue can be experienced most vividly. The old moat, pine trees, samurai residences, traditional gardens, and tea culture all preserve different aspects of the city’s past.
Walking slowly along the water, visiting a former samurai residence, and looking out over Matsue Castle from Meimei-an offer different perspectives on the same historic landscape. Together, they reveal how Matsue developed as a castle town and how its cultural traditions have been carefully preserved into the present day.