Wakakusa is one of Matsue City’s best-known traditional Japanese sweets. It continues to be carefully made by established confectionery shops in Matsue, including the long-running Saiundo.
Wakakusa is traditionally associated with Matsudaira Harusato, the seventh lord of the Matsue domain and a renowned tea master better known as Fumaikō. It is considered one of the sweets favored by Fumaikō and was traditionally enjoyed at tea ceremonies, particularly during spring.
Its fresh young-grass-green appearance and the gentle sweetness of its soft gyūhi rice cake beautifully express the tea culture of Matsue. For visitors exploring the historic castle town, Wakakusa offers a chance to experience the city’s history and traditional aesthetics through its local cuisine.
The name Wakakusa, meaning “young grass,” is said to have been inspired by a Japanese poem written by Fumaikō.
The poem describes gathering the fresh young grass of Mount Togao in spring before the rain arrives. The sentiment expressed in the poem—the appreciation of new greenery emerging in the spring mountains—is beautifully reflected in the appearance of the confection.
Soft gyūhi is generously coated with pale green kanbai-ko, a fine powder made from ground rice cakes. The resulting appearance resembles the fresh green landscape of the mountains in spring.
Fumaikō deeply valued the spirit of the tea ceremony and incorporated the changing seasons into his approach to tea. Wakakusa is said to have been regarded as a representative seasonal confection for spring tea gatherings.
After Fumaikō’s death, the traditional method of making Wakakusa is said to have been lost for a period of time. As society changed, the techniques used to make this confection gradually disappeared, turning Wakakusa into something of a lost delicacy.
During the middle of the Meiji period, however, Yamaguchi Zen’emon, the first generation of Saiundo, studied oral traditions passed down by elderly residents and tea masters. After extensive research, he succeeded in recreating the traditional confection.
Wakakusa was once again served at tea gatherings in Matsue and has continued to be made ever since. The efforts to preserve its traditional character while carefully refining the confection over time represent an important part of Matsue’s confectionery heritage.
The heart of Wakakusa is gyūhi, a soft and smooth rice cake made by kneading glutinous rice and sugar.
High-quality glutinous rice from Shimane Prefecture, including the Nita area of Okuizumo, is used. At the confectionery’s own facility, the rice is slowly wet-ground using a stone mill. This careful process produces Wakakusa’s distinctive combination of softness, elasticity, and pleasant bite.
The texture is satisfyingly chewy yet cuts cleanly when eaten. As it melts in the mouth, a gentle and refined sweetness gradually spreads across the palate.
The surface of the gyūhi is completely covered with young-green kanbai-ko, a fine powder made by grinding rice cakes.
The powder gently crumbles and dissolves in the mouth, giving Wakakusa a light, delicate texture. The final coating process is still performed carefully by hand, one piece at a time.
This attention to detail creates the soft, airy character that distinguishes Wakakusa and reflects the skill of the craftsmen who continue to preserve its traditional production methods.
Wakakusa is sometimes described together with Matsue’s famous sweets Yamakawa and Nanohana no Sato as the Three Great Fumaikō Confections.
All three sweets are closely connected with Fumaikō’s aesthetic ideals and the tea ceremony culture that became deeply rooted in Matsue.
Wakakusa, in particular, has long been loved as a confection representing spring tea gatherings. Its refreshing green color and refined sweetness complement the flavor of matcha while adding a sense of seasonal beauty to the tea table.
Matsudaira Harusato, known as Fumaikō, was one of the leading feudal lords and tea masters of the late Edo period. He played an important role in establishing a strong tea culture in Matsue.
He valued the traditions of Japanese tea, which trace their roots to the teachings associated with Sen no Rikyū, and was also known for his interest in poetry and traditional sweets.
Fumaikō is traditionally associated with “Cha-ji Jūni-kagetsu”, a guide to tea gatherings throughout the twelve months of the year. It presents seasonal themes and ideas suitable for tea ceremonies, with Wakakusa associated with spring.
In this way, Wakakusa represents the meeting point between an appreciation of nature and the spirit of hospitality that lies at the heart of the Japanese tea ceremony.
The making of Wakakusa begins with carefully selecting the ingredients. Firm, high-quality glutinous rice grown in colder regions is chosen and slowly wet-ground using a stone mill.
This time-consuming process helps create the confection’s characteristic elasticity and clean bite. The prepared gyūhi is then shaped into rectangular pieces and covered with young-green kanbai-ko.
Each piece is finished carefully by hand. The soft, delicate texture that is difficult to achieve through mass production is the result of the confectioners’ patience and craftsmanship.
Matsue is a historic castle town where the traditions of the Japanese tea ceremony remain an important part of local culture. After strolling through the historic streets, enjoying a bowl of matcha in a traditional tea room and tasting Wakakusa can be a particularly rewarding experience.
If you visit Matsue in spring, the confection’s fresh young-green color has an especially strong visual appeal. Unlike red-and-white sweets often associated with celebrations, Wakakusa expresses a quieter and more refreshing form of seasonal beauty.
Through the efforts of confectionery shops that have preserved traditional techniques, including Saiundo, which has been in business for more than 150 years, Wakakusa continues to be enjoyed today.
When visiting Matsue, try this elegant confection and take a moment to imagine the world of tea and seasonal aesthetics cherished by Fumaikō.
With its gentle sweetness, soft texture, and fresh green appearance, Wakakusa quietly expresses the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Matsue.