Ao-ishidatami Street is a historic stone-paved road in Mihonoseki, Matsue, Shimane Prefecture. It runs from Miho Shrine to Butsukokuji Temple and preserves the atmosphere of the old port town that flourished through Kitamaebune maritime trade.
The road was developed during the late Edo period as an approach to Miho Shrine. Mihonoseki had long been an important center of maritime transportation and became a major port of call for Kitamaebune merchant ships traveling along the Sea of Japan.
As you walk slowly along the stone pavement, the quiet streets can feel like a journey back to the Edo period. Traditional townhouses, inns, soy sauce storehouses, and historical facilities line the route, creating an atmosphere where the history of this former port town remains remarkably tangible.
Mihonoseki developed as the shrine town surrounding Miho Shrine, which enshrines Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto, widely known as Ebisu. For centuries, worshippers traveled here from throughout Japan, and the shrine became part of the traditional “two-shrine pilgrimage” together with Izumo Taisha.
After passing through the large torii gate of Miho Shrine and turning right, visitors reach the beginning of Ao-ishidatami Street. The route continues for approximately 150 meters, then turns left and extends another 100 meters or so toward Butsukokuji Temple. Although the entire route is only about 250 meters long, it contains a remarkable concentration of Mihonoseki’s history and culture.
During the Edo period, the street was busy with worshippers, sailors, merchants, and travelers. Inns, souvenir shops, shipping businesses, and other establishments stood along the route, contributing to the lively atmosphere of the port.
Today, the area is much quieter, but the old buildings and stone pavement continue to preserve memories of the town’s former prosperity.
The name Ao-ishidatami, meaning “blue stone pavement,” comes from the beautiful bluish appearance of the stones after rain. When wet, the pavement takes on a deep, subdued color that gives the street an especially atmospheric character.
Two main types of stone are used along the route. The section in front of the shrine uses Shakudani Stone from Fukui Prefecture, while the main street is paved with locally sourced tuff and sandstone. These stones, sometimes referred to as “sea stones,” reflect the close relationship between the town and its coastal environment.
The paving stones vary considerably in shape and size. Some are almost square, while others are rectangular, with the largest stones measuring approximately 80 centimeters on each side. Their orderly arrangement resembles traditional tatami mats, giving rise to the name “Ao-ishidatami.”
The stone pavement was constructed between the Bunka and Kōka eras, from 1804 to 1847, during the late Edo period. At the time, Mihonoseki Port was busy with the loading and unloading of goods from Kitamaebune ships, and the paved road helped make transportation through the town more efficient.
Mihonoseki flourished as an important port of call along the Sea of Japan route used by Kitamaebune ships. These large merchant vessels connected Osaka, the Seto Inland Sea, the Sea of Japan coast, and Hokkaido, transporting goods such as iron, rice, sake, ceramics, and kelp.
From the middle of the Edo period onward, more than 50 shipping agents are said to have operated around Mihonoseki Port. The harbor was also known as a place where ships could wait for favorable winds, and historical accounts describe as many as 1,000 ships anchoring there in a single day.
Sailors gathered in the town, and inns, restaurants, and entertainment establishments developed around the harbor. Mihonoseki became one of western Japan’s notable entertainment districts during its most prosperous period.
Lafcadio Hearn, also known as Koizumi Yakumo, visited Mihonoseki and described its nighttime scenery in his writings, including the lights of lanterns reflected on the sea and the lively atmosphere of the port.
Traditional inns such as Mihokan, as well as historic residences, still remain along Ao-ishidatami Street, allowing visitors to sense the atmosphere of the period when Mihonoseki prospered as a maritime trading port.
A visit to Ao-ishidatami Street is naturally complemented by a visit to Miho Shrine. The shrine is regarded as the grand head shrine of approximately 3,400 shrines dedicated to Ebisu throughout Japan.
The principal deities are Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto, known as Ebisu, and Mihotsuhime-no-Mikoto, his mother in local tradition. The shrine is associated with blessings for fishing, maritime activities, prosperous business, abundant harvests, and good relationships.
The main sanctuary is an unusual paired structure known as Miho-zukuri or Hiyoku Taisha-zukuri. The two adjoining sanctuaries have been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan and form one of the most recognizable architectural features of Miho Shrine.
Miho Shrine is also closely associated with the Japanese myth of Kuni-yuzuri, the transfer of rulership over the land. According to the myth, Ōkuninushi-no-Mikoto, who ruled Izumo, was asked to surrender his authority, and Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto was consulted about the decision.
Kotoshironushi is said to have chosen a peaceful transfer rather than conflict. This story remains an important part of Japanese mythology and is commemorated through traditional ceremonies at Miho Shrine.
Miho Shrine continues to preserve several traditional ceremonies associated with ancient mythology. Two of the most famous are the Aoshibagaki Shinji, held on April 7, and the Morotabune Shinji, held on December 3.
The Aoshibagaki Shinji recreates the story of Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto, who is said to have hidden himself behind a fence of green branches in the sea. Fishing boats decorated with fresh green branches are used during the ceremony, accompanied by sacred dances and music.
The ritual is associated with the arrival of spring and the renewal of life, attracting worshippers and visitors with its solemn and mysterious atmosphere.
The Morotabune Shinji is a dynamic ceremony based on the Kuni-yuzuri myth. Parishioners wearing traditional costumes board two boats and race across the water while energetically splashing seawater at one another.
The calls of the participants and the movements of the boats create a powerful spectacle. As a rare traditional ceremony performed on the sea, it offers visitors a vivid glimpse into Japan’s ancient festival culture.
At the end of Ao-ishidatami Street stands the historic Butsukokuji Temple. The temple grounds contain a collection of Buddhist statues designated as Important Cultural Properties, providing a quiet place to encounter the religious history of the region.
Precious Buddhist images dating back to the Heian period, including a seated statue of Yakushi Nyorai and a standing statue of Shō-Kannon, have been preserved here. They offer a glimpse into the long history of Buddhism and religious practice in Mihonoseki.
The temple grounds also contain the grave of Koshō Kichizō, traditionally known as the lover of the famous Edo-period figure Yaoya Oshichi. Butsukokuji has also been revered as a temple where people pray for protection from fire.
From around September to October each year, Ao-ishidatami Street is illuminated for a special evening event. Lanterns decorated with Hirose-dyeing softly light the stone pavement, creating an enchanting nighttime scene.
The deep blue-green tone of the wet-looking stone pavement and the indigo shades of Hirose dye create a striking combination of colors. The atmosphere is completely different from daytime, making an evening stroll an especially memorable way to experience Mihonoseki.
After exploring Ao-ishidatami Street, visitors can continue to Miho Seki Lighthouse. First illuminated in 1898, it is recognized as the oldest stone lighthouse in the San’in region and has also been selected as one of the 100 Historic Lighthouses of the World.
From the cape, visitors can enjoy expansive views across the Sea of Japan, with Mount Daisen and the Oki Islands visible on clear days. Walking paths around the lighthouse make the area suitable for a leisurely nature walk.
In spring and autumn, the surrounding area is also a popular location for observing migratory birds. Birdwatchers may encounter species such as blue-and-white flycatchers, narcissus flycatchers, and Japanese white-eyes.
Ao-ishidatami Street is more than a historic tourist attraction. It is a place where the history of Mihonoseki, its religious traditions, maritime culture, and the everyday lives of local residents continue to coexist.
As you walk across the old stone pavement, you can imagine the bustle of the Kitamaebune era and the many worshippers who once traveled this road to pray at Miho Shrine. At the same time, the quiet harbor atmosphere invites visitors to slow down and enjoy the present.
Historic architecture, beautiful stone paving, ancient mythology, traditional festivals, and magnificent views of the Sea of Japan come together along this compact walking route, making Ao-ishidatami Street one of the most atmospheric places to experience the distinctive character of Mihonoseki.