The city of Tsu in Mie Prefecture is renowned for its passion for unagi, or freshwater eel. It has historically been known for having one of Japan’s highest concentrations of eel restaurants relative to its population, as well as exceptionally high per-capita eel consumption.
Several stories explain how this local food culture developed. One widely cited theory dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868), when the Tōdō domain encouraged samurai to eat eel to improve their strength, vitality, and morale. Eel restaurants were reportedly gathered in the castle town from various parts of Japan, helping establish a tradition that continues today.
Japanese eel cuisine is generally associated with two main regional traditions: the Kanto style of eastern Japan and the Kansai style of western Japan. As Tsu belongs culturally to the Kansai region, most eel restaurants in the city follow the Kansai method.
In this style, the eel is split open along the belly and grilled directly over charcoal without first being steamed. Known as jiyaki, this technique allows the eel to cook over the fire while retaining its rich flavor and developing a fragrant, lightly crisp exterior. The eel is dipped in sauce at just the right moment and served over a bowl of steamed white rice.
Although Kansai-style preparation is widespread in Tsu, restaurants using the Kanto method can also be found. Each establishment has its own approach to grilling, seasoning, and serving eel, so the city’s diverse flavors cannot easily be reduced to a single style.
In Tsu, eel is not reserved solely for special occasions. It has long been a familiar and accessible part of local dining culture. Even a premium tokujō unadon—a bowl of rice topped with specially selected grilled eel—is traditionally available at relatively affordable prices compared with those in many other areas of Japan.
For visitors exploring Mie Prefecture, tasting charcoal-grilled eel in Tsu offers a delicious way to experience the city’s distinctive food culture and its enduring affection for this classic Japanese dish.