The Former Homma Residence is a historic house in Sakata City, Yamagata Prefecture. It was the principal residence of the wealthy Homma family, a prominent merchant family that accumulated considerable wealth during the Edo period.
The residence is particularly noteworthy because it combines the formal architecture of a samurai residence with features of a merchant house within a single complex. This unusual combination provides a fascinating glimpse into both the social hierarchy and commercial culture of Edo-period Japan.
The present residence was built in 1768 by Homma Mitsuoka, the third head of the Homma family. It was originally constructed for the Sakai family, the lords of the Shonai Domain, and presented to them as accommodation for a party of Shogunate inspection officials. The Homma family later received the residence from the Sakai family and used it as their principal home.
From 1949 to 1976, the building was used as a community center. It was opened to the public as a sightseeing attraction in 1982 and remains an important cultural property preserving the history of Sakata’s merchant culture and the Homma family’s relationship with the Shonai region.
The Homma family developed into one of Sakata’s most influential merchant families during the Edo period and was once described as “Japan’s wealthiest landowners.” Their enormous fortune became so famous that a popular saying emerged: “We cannot equal Lord Homma, but at least we can aspire to become a lord.”
Despite their great wealth, the Homma family was also known for using its resources for the benefit of the local community. In the Shonai region, they invested their own money to establish and maintain pine forests that helped protect communities from damaging windblown sand.
During years of poor harvests, the family is also said to have created employment opportunities for farmers by undertaking construction projects, including the development of residences and gardens.
A visit to the Former Homma Residence therefore reveals more than the wealth of a powerful merchant family. The site also provides an opportunity to consider the Homma family’s relationship with the local community and everyday life in historic Sakata.
The Former Homma Residence was newly constructed in 1768 by the third family head, Homma Mitsuoka, to accommodate a party of officials sent by the Tokugawa shogunate to inspect the domains of feudal lords. It was presented to the Sakai family, the lords of the Shonai Domain, and built with the status and layout of a 2,000-koku samurai residence.
The term koku refers to a traditional unit used to measure the agricultural yield of rice and, historically, the assessed wealth and status of a feudal lord. A residence of 2,000-koku rank therefore reflected a considerable level of formality.
The building is a single-story structure with a traditional tiled roof and shoin-style architecture, the formal architectural style associated with samurai residences and reception spaces. It has a floor area of approximately 200 tsubo, or roughly 660 square meters, and contains 23 rooms.
The main building measures approximately 33.6 meters in length and 16.5 meters in width. After the inspection officials had returned to Edo, the residence was given to the Homma family by the Sakai family. The Homma family subsequently used the merchant-style portion of the building as their home and lived there until around the spring of 1945.
One of the most remarkable characteristics of the Former Homma Residence is the way samurai-style and merchant-style architecture coexist within the same building.
The front section presents the formal appearance expected of a high-ranking samurai residence, while the interior and rear sections incorporate spaces designed for the everyday life of a wealthy merchant family.
This combination reflects the unusual position of the Homma family, who were merchants of extraordinary wealth while also being permitted a degree of samurai status. The architecture offers a tangible way to understand the social structure and merchant culture of Edo-period Japan.
The Nagayamon is a long gatehouse characteristic of prestigious samurai residences. Its imposing design reflects the formal status of a residence of 2,000-koku rank.
The gate was not intended simply for ordinary daily use. It was particularly associated with formal occasions and the reception of important guests.
Passing through the Nagayamon reveals a space where the grandeur of a wealthy merchant’s home and the formal character of a samurai residence come together.
On the eastern side of the property stands a Yakui-mon gate, accompanied by beautiful white plaster walls. This gate served more practical, everyday purposes and had a different role from the formal Nagayamon.
The contrast between the gate and the long stretches of white plaster walls creates an elegant exterior that blends beautifully with the historic atmosphere of Sakata.
The Ozashiki, or formal reception room, was prepared for the shogunate inspection officials who stayed at the residence. Designed in the refined shoin style, the room incorporates carefully considered decorative details intended for the reception and entertainment of important guests.
When visiting the Former Homma Residence, it is worth remembering that the building was not originally designed solely as a private home. It was also created to accommodate important officials of the Tokugawa shogunate, which helps explain the formal layout and character of its rooms.
The Okatte was the kitchen area of the residence. Traditional kitchens in Edo-period homes commonly had earthen floors, but the Homma family’s kitchen had a wooden floor.
This detail is thought to reflect the family’s special social position and the status they were permitted despite being merchants. Small architectural differences such as this provide valuable clues to the Homma family’s unusual place in Edo-period society.
One of the most striking features near the entrance is the Garyu-no-Matsu, or “Crouching Dragon Pine.” This red pine is believed to be more than 400 years old and is also known as a “gate-covering pine” because its branches spread over the roof of the entrance.
The pine is traditionally regarded as a symbol of one of the Homma family’s guiding principles: “Do not become arrogant; always remain humble.”
The tree is therefore more than an impressive specimen. It represents the family’s belief in humility and its emphasis on contributing to the local community despite its enormous wealth.
The main entrance features architectural details that emphasize the formal character of the residence. The shikidai, a raised entry platform associated with formal reception, is made of zelkova wood, while the wooden doors use jindai-sugi, or “ancient cedar,” a rare type of cedar preserved over long periods under unusual natural conditions.
Examining these materials and the details of the doors and fittings provides an appreciation of the craftsmanship and attention to detail invested in the residence.
The garden is another highlight of the Former Homma Residence. Among its features are prestigious stones brought from various parts of Japan by Kitamaebune trading ships.
These stones were originally used as ballast, known locally as wata-tsumiishi or kaijin-ishi, to stabilize ships during their voyages. After arriving in Sakata, some of these valuable stones were incorporated into gardens.
Sakata prospered as an important port on the Sea of Japan, and Kitamaebune ships connected the city with ports across Japan. The stones in the garden therefore provide a tangible reminder of the trade networks that supported Sakata’s prosperity and the wealth of the Homma family.
Across the road from the Former Homma Residence is a separate building known as the “Omise,” or “Shop.” Exhibits inside introduce visitors to the commercial activities of the Homma family and the everyday world of an Edo-period merchant house.
The displays include a traditional merchant’s counter, measuring and weighing instruments, lanterns and other lighting equipment, and kitchen utensils.
After seeing the formal samurai-style residence, visiting the Omise provides a different perspective on the Homma family’s life as wealthy merchants and helps visitors understand how commercial activities were conducted in historic Sakata.
Souvenirs and local products are also available at the shop.
From around late February to early April, the Sakata area hosts the “Sakata Hina Kaido”, an exhibition event featuring traditional Hina dolls.
During this seasonal event, families and institutions open their collections of treasured Hina dolls, many of which have been carefully passed down through generations. The Former Homma Residence also displays Hina dolls during the event.
Other local attractions, including the nearby Homma Museum of Art, also participate, providing visitors with an opportunity to discover Sakata’s distinctive tradition of Hina doll culture.
The Former Homma Residence is an important historic site that preserves the story of the Homma family’s enormous wealth and the commercial culture of Edo-period Sakata.
The prestigious Nagayamon, the formal guest rooms prepared for shogunate inspectors, and the combination of samurai and merchant architecture all reveal the family’s unusual social position.
Other highlights include the 400-year-old Garyu-no-Matsu pine, the garden stones transported by Kitamaebune trading ships, and the exhibits in the Omise across the street.
Together, these features offer visitors a chance to discover the life of a wealthy merchant family, the formal world of samurai residences, Sakata’s prosperity through Kitamaebune trade, and the Homma family’s contributions to the local community. For travelers interested in the history and culture of Sakata, the Former Homma Residence is an especially valuable place to explore.