Sakura trout from the Shonai region has long been cherished as a fish that announces the arrival of spring. It is traditionally served as a special dish during spring festivals, making it one of the seasonal flavors that symbolizes spring for local communities.
As its Japanese name suggests, the fish develops a delicate pinkish color reminiscent of cherry blossoms in early spring. At this time, it begins swimming upstream into rivers to spawn. Its return to the rivers is itself a beautiful sign that spring has arrived in Shonai.
Interestingly, sakura trout and yamame are the same species of fish. Some fish hatch and grow in rivers before migrating downstream to the sea, where they continue to mature. They eventually return to their natal rivers to spawn. This sea-run form is known as sakura trout.
By contrast, individuals that do not migrate to the sea and spend their entire lives in rivers are known as yamame. Although they are the same fish, differences in their environment and life cycle result in differences in body size, appearance, and name.
Sakura trout hatch and begin their lives in rivers before migrating to the sea. They travel through waters including the Sea of Okhotsk and the Sea of Japan, where they grow before eventually returning to rivers to spawn.
During early spring, seeing these fish swimming upstream with their subtly pink-colored bodies is one of the natural scenes that symbolizes the arrival of spring in Shonai.
One of the local specialties worth seeking out in Shonai is kawa-masu, or river-run sakura trout, caught as the fish migrates upstream near the mouth of the Mogami River.
Fishing takes place each year from April 1 through May 31. In particular, fish caught around the Shinbori area of Sakata City are known locally for their exceptional flavor.
As snowmelt increases the river’s flow and gives the Mogami River a cloudy appearance, the sakura trout swimming upstream develops firmer flesh and a rich, fatty flavor compared with fish still living in the sea. The period when the fish reaches the Shinbori area is considered an especially desirable time for eating.
In the past, large numbers of kawa-masu were caught in the Mogami River. In recent years, however, declining catches have become a concern.
Possible factors include reduced snowfall and changes in the timing of water being diverted for agricultural use associated with rice planting.
After May begins, the water level of the Mogami River tends to fall and the water becomes clearer. Sakura trout are believed to prefer turbid water, so clearer conditions can make upstream migration more difficult and may also affect the catch.
Shonai sakura trout is in season from around April to June. In particular, the period when the fish migrates upstream through the Mogami River offers a special opportunity to enjoy this distinctive seasonal food of Shonai.
Sakura trout is more than simply a type of seafood. As a traditional dish served during spring festivals, it has become closely connected with the food culture of Shonai and its sense of the changing seasons.
With its remarkable life cycle connecting rivers and the sea, and its return to the Mogami River in spring, kawa-masu offers a flavor that is uniquely associated with springtime in Shonai.
When visiting Shonai in spring, try a seasonal sakura trout dish at a local restaurant and experience the flavors of the season as well as the region’s connection between its rivers, coastline, and traditional food culture.