Surrounded by deep mountains in eastern Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, the Hongu Area is one of the most sacred regions associated with the World Heritage Site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
For centuries, people have traveled through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula along the Kumano Kodo, carrying their prayers with them. At the end of many of these long journeys stands Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano and the spiritual heart of the Hongu region.
During the Heian period, retired emperors and aristocrats repeatedly made pilgrimages to Kumano. The number of travelers became so great that the pilgrimage was famously described as an “Ants’ Pilgrimage to Kumano,” comparing the long lines of pilgrims to ants moving along a trail.
After crossing steep mountain passes and traveling through dense forests, pilgrims finally arrived in Hongu. Here, they offered prayers and refreshed themselves in the region’s hot springs.
Today, the Hongu Area is also famous for its hot-spring culture. The region is home to Yunomine Onsen, often described as one of Japan’s oldest hot springs; Kawayu Onsen, where hot spring water rises directly through the riverbed; and the enormous seasonal open-air bath known as Senninburo.
With its combination of ancient pilgrimage routes, sacred shrines, mountain landscapes, traditional culture, and hot springs, Hongu continues to attract travelers as a place of healing, renewal, and spiritual discovery.
Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of the three grand shrines collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan, together with Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha.
The shrine’s principal deity is Ketsumiko-no-Okami, traditionally identified with Susanoo-no-Mikoto. For centuries, the shrine has attracted worshippers from all levels of Japanese society, from emperors and aristocrats to samurai and ordinary people.
According to the Kumano Chronicle, the origins of the shrine are said to date back to the reign of Emperor Sujin. The oldest surviving historical record associated with the shrine dates to 766.
The original shrine complex was located at Oyunohara, a sacred sandbank where the Kumano River, Otonashi River, and Iwata River meet.
In 1889, a devastating flood severely damaged the original shrine complex. The main shrine buildings were subsequently moved to their present location on higher ground. Oyunohara, however, remains a sacred site, and its enormous torii gate now rises above the surrounding landscape.
The towering gate creates a particularly impressive sight against the mountains and rice fields, reminding visitors of the spiritual importance of the original shrine site.
The Hongu Area is surrounded by some of the most important sections of the Kumano Kodo, which forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
The best-known route approaching Hongu is the Nakahechi Route, which runs from Tanabe toward Kumano Hongu Taisha. It was historically the most frequently traveled pilgrimage route to Kumano.
Another important route is the Kohechi Route, which connects Koyasan with Hongu, while the Iseji Route approaches Kumano from the direction of Ise Jingu in Mie Prefecture.
Walking along these quiet mountain trails, surrounded by forests and distant mountain peaks, visitors can gain a sense of the journeys made by pilgrims many centuries ago.
One of the three grand shrines of Kumano, Kumano Hongu Taisha has been an important center of worship since ancient times. Its principal deity, Ketsumiko-no-Okami, is traditionally associated with Susanoo-no-Mikoto.
The shrine has attracted worshippers from the imperial court, samurai families, and ordinary communities throughout Japanese history, making it one of the country’s most significant centers of pilgrimage.
Oyunohara is the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha.
The original shrine buildings once stood on a sacred sandbank at the confluence of the Kumano, Otonashi, and Iwata Rivers. After the great flood of 1889, the shrine was moved to its present location.
Today, an enormous torii gate marks the former sacred precinct. Standing beneath the towering structure and looking toward the surrounding mountains offers a powerful sense of the site’s history.
Hosshinmon-oji is traditionally regarded as one of the Five Major Oji, the most important sacred waypoints among the many Oji along the Kumano pilgrimage routes.
It was considered an entrance to the sacred domain of Kumano Hongu. Beyond this point, the journey was traditionally understood to become increasingly sacred.
Today, the trail from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of the most popular sections of the Kumano Kodo for first-time hikers. The route combines manageable walking distances with beautiful forests, traditional pilgrimage landmarks, and a strong sense of history.
Fushiogami-oji is famous as the place where pilgrims could catch their first distant glimpse of Kumano Hongu Taisha after completing a long and demanding journey through the mountains.
Overwhelmed with emotion, pilgrims are said to have fallen to their knees and bowed in prayer when they finally saw their destination. This tradition is reflected in the name Fushiogami, which can be interpreted as “bowing down in worship.”
Even today, the view toward the forest surrounding Oyunohara creates a powerful impression and conveys something of the spiritual significance of the ancient pilgrimage.
Nanagoshi Peak is one of the scenic viewpoints associated with the Hongu area and is counted among the Eight Scenic Views of Kumano Hongu.
From the elevated viewpoint, visitors can look across Kumano Hongu Taisha, Oyunohara, and the surrounding mountain villages. The landscape is particularly beautiful when morning mist settles over the valleys.
The Kogumotorigoe section of the Kumano Kodo leads through rugged mountain terrain and includes the spectacular viewpoint known as Hyakken-gura.
After climbing the demanding trail, hikers are rewarded with expansive views across the mountains of the Kii Peninsula. The remote scenery offers an especially strong sense of the wild, spiritual landscape that defines the Kumano Kodo.
Another major attraction of the Hongu Area is its long-standing hot-spring culture.
During the Kumano pilgrimage, travelers used hot springs for yugori, a form of ritual purification and bathing that helped prepare them spiritually for visiting sacred sites. The hot springs also provided welcome relief after long days of walking through the mountains.
Today, the area’s hot springs are collectively known as the Kumano Hongu Hot Spring Resort, with each onsen offering a distinctly different experience.
Yunomine Onsen is a historic hot-spring settlement often described as one of Japan’s oldest hot springs.
It flourished as a place of purification for pilgrims traveling to Kumano Hongu. After days of walking, pilgrims could bathe in the hot spring and prepare themselves both physically and spiritually for the final stage of their pilgrimage.
The most famous bath is Tsuboyu, a small rock bath that is itself part of the World Heritage cultural landscape. According to tradition, the color of the water changes several times a day, adding to the mysterious atmosphere of the site.
Steam rises throughout the narrow hot-spring village, while along the river visitors can find traditional yuto cooking facilities, where eggs and vegetables are cooked in naturally hot spring water.
With its historic buildings, steaming waters, and narrow streets, Yunomine Onsen preserves a strong sense of an old Japanese hot-spring village.
Kawayu Onsen is one of the most unusual hot springs in Japan.
Here, hot spring water naturally rises through the riverbed of the Oto River. Visitors can dig into the gravel along the riverbank to create their own temporary open-air bath, adjusting the temperature by mixing the hot spring water with the cool river water.
The experience of bathing beside a clear mountain river while surrounded by forest is one of the most distinctive attractions of the Hongu region.
In winter, Kawayu becomes home to the enormous open-air bath known as Senninburo.
The bath is created by partially damming the river, forming a large pool of naturally heated water in the riverbed. During the day, bathers can look up at the blue winter sky, while at night they can enjoy the stars above the surrounding mountains.
Senninburo has become one of the most famous winter traditions of the Hongu Area and offers an unforgettable way to experience the connection between hot springs and nature.
Wataze Onsen is a popular hot-spring resort surrounded by forests and mountains.
The area features a spacious open-air bath, said to be among the largest in western Japan, where visitors can relax in a peaceful natural setting.
Camping facilities and bungalows are also available nearby, making Wataze an attractive choice for travelers who want to combine outdoor activities with a traditional Japanese hot-spring experience.
The Hongu Area is surrounded by mountains reaching around 1,000 meters in elevation, including the Hatenashi Mountain Range to the north and the Otō Mountain Range to the south.
The area’s mountainous geography creates significant seasonal changes, and each season reveals a different side of the landscape.
In spring, mountain cherry blossoms and fresh green foliage brighten the forests. Summer brings clear rivers and deep green mountains. In autumn, the hillsides turn brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. Winter brings crisp air, occasional snow, and exceptionally clear views across the mountains.
Beautiful valleys and waterfalls can also be found along the Kumano and Oto Rivers, making the region attractive for nature walks, photography, and quiet exploration.
Hongu developed as an important center of Shugendo, a Japanese mountain ascetic tradition, and of the distinctive religious practices associated with Kumano.
Kumano faith also became closely connected with devotion to Amida Buddha, and over time its influence spread far beyond the imperial court to samurai and ordinary people.
The region was also associated with the tradition of Kumano Seishi, written pledges and oaths made before the Kumano deities. People traveled to Kumano not only to pray, but also to affirm important promises and commitments in the presence of the sacred.
In the Ose district of Hongu, the traditional Ose Taiko Dance has been preserved for generations.
The powerful rhythms of the drums and energetic movements of the dancers make this an important example of the region’s living folk culture. The performance has been recognized as a Selected Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.
Traditional performances such as this demonstrate that the cultural heritage of Hongu is not confined to historic buildings and pilgrimage routes. It continues to live through the people and communities of the region.
Across from Kumano Hongu Taisha is the World Heritage Kumano Hongu Heritage Center.
The center introduces visitors to the history of the Kumano Kodo, Kumano faith, pilgrimage culture, and the surrounding region in an easy-to-understand way. It also serves as a useful tourist information center.
For visitors preparing to walk the Kumano Kodo, it is a convenient place to gather information about trails, attractions, and local facilities. It also provides a comfortable place to rest before or after visiting the shrine.
The Hongu Area is much more than a sightseeing destination.
Walking along the Kumano Kodo, entering the quiet forests of the Kii Peninsula, standing before ancient shrines, and soaking in a natural hot spring creates a journey that can feel both physically restorative and spiritually meaningful.
For more than a thousand years, the region has been shaped by pilgrimage, religious traditions, reverence for nature, mountain culture, and hot-spring bathing.
The World Heritage pilgrimage routes preserve the physical traces of this history, while the shrines, festivals, villages, and hot springs continue to embody the traditions of Kumano today.
A visit to Kumano Hongu Taisha is naturally the centerpiece of any trip to the region, but the experience becomes even richer when combined with a walk along the Kumano Kodo, a visit to the old sacred site of Oyunohara, and a relaxing stay at one of the area’s historic hot springs.
For travelers looking to experience a quieter and more spiritual side of Japan, the Hongu Area offers a rare opportunity to slow down, walk through ancient forests, encounter living traditions, and reconnect with nature.
Here, the journey itself becomes part of the destination—a journey of prayer, healing, renewal, and discovery in the sacred mountains of Kumano.