Ogumotori-goe is a historic pilgrimage route on the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi trail, connecting the sacred area of Nachisan, home to Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine and Seiganto-ji Temple, with the village of Koguchi in Kumano River Town, Shingu City.
Known as one of the most challenging sections of the Kumano Kodo, the trail crosses a series of steep mountain passes through the remote forests of the Kii Peninsula. Its name evokes the image of traveling through the clouds, reflecting the high mountains and secluded atmosphere of the route.
Ogumotori-goe was once walked by pilgrims traveling between the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano. Today, it remains one of the most demanding and rewarding sections of the Nakahechi pilgrimage route, attracting hikers and travelers who want to experience the area’s ancient religious traditions and pristine mountain landscapes.
The section from Kumano Nachi Taisha to Koguchi is approximately 14.5 kilometers long, with a standard walking time of around five hours, excluding breaks. However, the route includes repeated steep ascents and descents, so hikers should allow considerably more time for rest and sightseeing.
Although Ogumotori-goe is regarded as one of the toughest sections of the Nakahechi route, its difficulty is part of its appeal. Hikers are rewarded with historic stone pavements, moss-covered forests, mountain passes with spectacular views, and remains of former teahouses and inns.
Pilgrims traveling along the Nakahechi route traditionally visited the three sacred sites of Kumano. After reaching Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine, they could travel downstream along the Kumano River by boat toward Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine, before continuing along the coastal route toward Kumano Nachi Taisha.
After completing their pilgrimage to the three Kumano Sanzan shrines, pilgrims needed a route to return toward Hongu. The mountain paths known today as Ogumotori-goe and Kogumotori-goe served this purpose.
Ogumotori-goe connects Nachisan with Koguchi, while Kogumotori-goe continues from Koguchi toward Kumano Hongu Taisha. Together, the two sections cover approximately 27 kilometers.
Even today, many hikers choose to walk both sections as a two-day, one-night journey, staying overnight in Koguchi before continuing toward Kumano Hongu Taisha the following day.
It is also possible to walk only Ogumotori-goe. However, public transportation around Koguchi is limited, so visitors should check bus schedules, operating days, and destinations in advance and plan their route carefully.
Ogumotori-goe is characterized by steep mountain paths and significant changes in elevation. After leaving Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji Temple, the trail climbs toward Nachi Highlands before continuing over several mountain passes, including Funami-toge, Ishikura-toge, and Echin-toge, many of which are around 800 meters above sea level.
The trail repeatedly rises and falls, making it considerably more strenuous than the distance alone might suggest. Good physical fitness and appropriate hiking experience are recommended.
One of the most difficult sections is Dodokiri-zaka, located after Echin-toge on the way down toward Koguchi. Over approximately five kilometers, the trail descends sharply through the mountains, with some sections retaining their original stone paving.
The name Dodokiri-zaka is traditionally associated with the extreme physical effort required to climb the slope. One explanation is that the steep ascent could cause such severe pain in the sides of the body that it felt as though the torso were being cut in two.
For hikers traveling from Hongu toward Nachi, this section requires a difficult climb. Those traveling from Nachi toward Koguchi face a long and steep descent, which can place considerable strain on the knees and legs. Sturdy hiking shoes and appropriate mountain gear are strongly recommended.
One of the highlights of Ogumotori-goe is Funami Pass, located at an elevation of approximately 870 meters. A teahouse known as Funami Chaya once stood near the pass, where travelers could rest while enjoying the impressive scenery.
From the rest area, hikers can look across the vast Kumano Sea and see surrounding landmarks such as Mount Myoho, Nachi Highlands, and the mountains around Nachikatsuura.
For pilgrims traveling from Hongu toward Nachi, this was traditionally a place where they could catch their first distant glimpse of their destination. For those returning from Nachi toward Hongu, it provided an opportunity to look back toward the land they had just left behind.
The expansive view is particularly rewarding after the demanding climb. Within the dense mountain landscape of the Kumano Kodo, Funami Pass offers the rare opportunity to see both mountains and the sea from a single viewpoint.
Between Funami Pass and Irogo-tsuji is a place known as “Mojan no Deai,” or “Meeting the Dead.” The mountains of Kumano have long been regarded as a mystical realm connected with the boundary between this world and the spiritual world.
According to local legend, travelers walking along this mountain path could encounter deceased friends or family members. One story tells of a traveler who met an acquaintance approaching from the opposite direction, only to discover later that the person had already died.
Mist can sometimes descend over the mountains even during the daytime. Surrounded by quiet cedar forests and narrow valleys, hikers may experience the unique atmosphere that has made Kumano a place of spiritual significance for centuries.
Ogumotori-goe is therefore more than a mountain trail. It is a pilgrimage route where generations of travelers walked while praying and contemplating the sacred and mysterious nature of Kumano.
Near the middle of Ogumotori-goe are the Jizo-jaya Teahouse Ruins. A teahouse once stood here, providing an important place for pilgrims and travelers to rest during their long journey through the mountains.
The area remains a useful resting point for hikers today. After leaving Jizo-jaya, the trail once again enters dense forest and continues toward Ishikura Pass and Echin Pass.
Sections of the original moss-covered stone pavement can still be found along the route. Walking over these stones while looking at the old walls and forest landscape offers a powerful sense of connection with the pilgrims who traveled this same path centuries ago.
The famous court poet Fujiwara no Teika is also known to have traveled through the Kumano mountains while accompanying Emperor Go-Toba on a pilgrimage to Kumano. Teika recorded the difficult conditions in his diary, including traveling through heavy rain. His account provides a glimpse of how challenging the journey was even in the medieval period.
Walking this historic trail today allows visitors to experience, in a small way, the hardships faced by travelers of the past.
After passing Echin Pass, hikers begin the long descent of Dodokiri-zaka, the most demanding section of Ogumotori-goe. The steep slope requires careful attention, particularly where sections of historic stone pavement remain.
The stones can become extremely slippery in wet weather, so hikers should take extra care during or after rain.
After descending through the forest, the trail eventually reaches the remains of Kusunoki-no-Kubo Hatago, a former travelers’ lodging area. It is said that more than a dozen inns once stood here.
Before modern roads were constructed, this mountain route was an important transportation corridor connecting Kumano with surrounding areas. Pilgrims and other travelers passed through the mountains in large numbers, and the inns provided accommodation and rest along the difficult journey.
As you walk through the quiet forest today, it is fascinating to imagine the lively scene that once existed here, with travelers arriving at the mountain inns after a long day’s journey.
As the trail approaches Koguchi, hikers encounter Waroda-ishi, a large moss-covered rock surrounded by forest. According to local tradition, the gods of the three Kumano grand shrines once gathered here, sat in a circle, shared sake, and enjoyed conversation.
The name “Waroda” refers to a round woven mat traditionally made from materials such as straw or rushes. The rock is said to have received its name because its shape resembles such a circular mat.
Three Buddhist seed syllables are carved into the stone. They are traditionally associated with Buddhist figures and deities connected with the three Kumano shrines, reflecting the historical tradition of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism that developed in Kumano.
For travelers who have crossed the demanding mountain passes, Waroda-ishi provides a particularly atmospheric encounter with the spiritual traditions of Kumano. The enormous rock quietly standing among the trees is one of the most memorable sights along Ogumotori-goe.
Beyond Waroda-ishi, the trail eventually reaches Koguchi, the endpoint of Ogumotori-goe. Koguchi is a small settlement along the clear Akagi River and has historically served as an important stopping point connecting Ogumotori-goe and Kogumotori-goe.
Today, Koguchi remains an important overnight stop for hikers completing both sections as a two-day journey. After finishing the demanding mountain crossing, travelers can rest near the Akagi River before continuing through Kogumotori-goe toward Kumano Hongu Taisha the next day.
Ogumotori-goe forms part of the “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range,” a UNESCO World Heritage property. However, it should not be mistaken for an easy sightseeing path. This is a serious mountain route involving long hours of walking, steep climbs and descents, and potentially changing weather conditions.
Hikers should prepare suitable footwear, rain gear, drinking water, food for the trail, and other necessary hiking equipment. It is also important to allow plenty of time and avoid attempting the route under unsuitable weather or physical conditions.
Because public transportation and accommodation around Koguchi are limited, travelers should check the latest bus schedules, service days, and accommodation availability before setting out. This is particularly important for those walking only the Ogumotori-goe section.
Kumano Kodo Nakahechi’s Ogumotori-goe is a remarkable historic trail where nature, pilgrimage, legend, and spirituality come together. The challenging mountain paths lead through ancient forests, across historic stone pavements, over spectacular passes, and past places associated with centuries-old traditions and legends.
From the panoramic views of the Kumano Sea at Funami Pass to the mysterious stories surrounding “Meeting the Dead,” from the ruins of old teahouses and inns to the sacred atmosphere of Waroda-ishi, every section of the trail tells part of the long history of pilgrimage in Kumano.
Walking from Kumano Nachi Taisha through the mountains and descending toward Koguchi is a physically demanding experience, but completing the journey brings a deep sense of accomplishment. For travelers seeking an authentic experience of Japan’s ancient pilgrimage culture, Ogumotori-goe offers an unforgettable journey through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula.