Kogumotori-goe is a historic mountain pilgrimage route on the Kumano Kodo, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” It connects Koguchi in Kumano River Town, Shingu City, with Ukegawa in Hongu Town, Tanabe City.
Kogumotori-goe forms the second half of the historic “Kumotori-goe” mountain crossing between Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine and Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine. Compared with the more demanding Ogumotori-goe section, Kogumotori-goe generally has gentler terrain and is now popular as a hiking route for visitors who want to experience the forests, history, and spirituality of the Kumano region.
Pilgrims traveling along the Nakahechi route traditionally made their way to Kumano Hongu Taisha, then traveled down the Kumano River toward Kumano Hayatama Taisha, before continuing toward Nachi to worship at Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji Temple.
After visiting the three sacred sites known as the Kumano Sanzan, pilgrims returning from Nachi toward Hongu crossed the mountains along two historic trails: Ogumotori-goe and Kogumotori-goe.
Ogumotori-goe connects Nachisan with Koguchi and is known for its steep climbs and high mountain passes. Kogumotori-goe continues from Koguchi toward Ukegawa and covers approximately 13 kilometers.
Although Kogumotori-goe is by no means an easy walk, it has fewer dramatic changes in elevation than Ogumotori-goe and follows relatively gentle paths through the forest. This makes it a popular choice for hikers who want to experience the historic pilgrimage route while enjoying the peaceful natural surroundings.
The name “Kumotori” is sometimes associated with the impression of traveling deep into the mountains as if walking among the clouds. Even today, walking this ancient trail offers a chance to experience the magnificent forests of Kumano and the history of a pilgrimage route passed down through many generations.
Koguchi has long served as an important stopping point between Ogumotori-goe and Kogumotori-goe. In the past, travelers who had crossed the difficult Ogumotori-goe would spend the night here before continuing through the mountains toward Kumano Hongu the following day.
Today, walking both sections as a two-day, one-night journey remains one of the best ways to experience the Kumano Kodo. Travelers can walk Ogumotori-goe from the Nachi area, stay overnight in Koguchi, and then continue along Kogumotori-goe toward Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Along the route from Koguchi is the site of the former Kowaze ferry crossing. In the past, pilgrims used a ferry to cross the Akagi River before beginning the mountain section of their journey.
A bridge now crosses the river, but the site still provides a sense of how travelers once made their way through this remote region. From Kowaze, the main mountain trail of Kogumotori-goe begins.
The beginning of the route includes one of the steepest climbs on Kogumotori-goe. Hikers ascend approximately 350 meters in elevation before reaching the former site of Sakurachaya. Although Kogumotori-goe is generally considered more moderate than Ogumotori-goe, this initial climb can be physically demanding.
Along the steep climb are the Sakurachaya Teahouse Ruins, where a teahouse once welcomed travelers. The name is traditionally said to have come from a large cherry tree that once stood in the teahouse garden.
According to local tradition, when the teahouse owner spotted pilgrims dressed in white approaching from a distance, he would prepare rice cakes and tea to welcome them. In the remote mountains of Kumano, teahouses were much more than simple places to take a break. They provided tired travelers with food, drinks, and a place to recover before continuing their journey.
Although the building is no longer standing, the ruins allow visitors to imagine the lively scene that once existed along this remote pilgrimage route.
Continuing beyond Sakurachaya brings hikers to Sakura Pass, at an elevation of approximately 466 meters. This is the highest point of Kogumotori-goe. After crossing the pass, the trail becomes relatively gentle and continues along forested ridges.
Beyond Sakura Pass, the trail passes through the deep forests that characterize the Kumano region. Trees such as ubame oak, evergreen oaks, konara oak, and cherry trees grow throughout the area, creating a landscape that evokes the ancient forests of the Kii Peninsula.
There are also extensive plantations of cedar and cypress, and the quiet path between the trees offers a peaceful hiking experience far from the noise of modern cities.
Along the way, hikers encounter the Ishido-chaya Teahouse Ruins. A teahouse is believed to have operated here during the Edo period. Because stone suitable for whetstones was once found nearby, the site was also known as “Ishito-chaya.” A small shelter is now available here, providing a convenient place for hikers to rest.
Further along the trail stands the quiet Sai-no-Kawara Jizo, a stone Buddhist statue surrounded by forest. Such Jizo statues, stone monuments, and teahouse ruins can be found throughout the Kumano Kodo, offering visitors a chance to encounter the spiritual and human history of the pilgrimage route while walking through nature.
One of the most impressive sights on Kogumotori-goe is Hyakken-gura, a spectacular viewpoint located roughly midway along the route.
After walking through dense forest, the trail suddenly opens onto a dramatic panorama of the mountains of Kumano. Layer upon layer of forested ridges stretch toward the horizon, creating an immense landscape that gives a strong sense of the depth and scale of the Kii Peninsula.
The word “gura” is traditionally used in this region to describe a high cliff. Hyakken-gura stands on such a high point and is regarded as one of the finest viewpoints along Kogumotori-goe.
To the northwest, hikers can see the ridgeline of the Hatenashi Mountains, while to the southwest are the mountains around Mount Otō, the highest peak in the southern Kii region.
The overlapping mountain ridges create the kind of vast scenery traditionally described as the “3,600 peaks of Kumano.” A Jizo statue stands quietly at Hyakken-gura, appearing almost as though it is watching over the endless mountains.
At sunset, the mountains can be bathed in warm evening light, creating an especially atmospheric view. Hikers should allow enough time to stop here and enjoy the panorama rather than simply passing through.
Continuing beyond Hyakken-gura, hikers reach a junction near Mansai Pass. This area has historical connections with routes leading toward the Iseji section of the Kumano Kodo.
The Kumano Kodo is not a single road but a network of pilgrimage routes extending across the Kii Peninsula. In addition to Nakahechi and Iseji, routes such as Kohechi and Ohechi connected different parts of the peninsula with the sacred sites of Kumano.
For centuries, pilgrims traveled these routes from different directions, creating a vast network of paths centered on the Kumano Sanzan.
Beyond the junction at Mansai Pass are the Matsuhata-chaya Teahouse Ruins. Records from the Edo period indicate that as many as four or five teahouses once stood in this area, serving travelers along the mountain route.
The site is believed to have been busy enough to accommodate travelers coming from the direction of Ise. Today, sections of stone foundations and former residential sites remain, offering clues to the small settlement that once existed deep in the mountains.
One of the pleasures of hiking the Kumano Kodo is discovering these traces of the past and imagining the travelers who once rested here after crossing the same mountain paths.
After passing the Matsuhata-chaya ruins, the trail gradually descends toward Ukegawa, near the confluence of the Kumano River and Oto River.
After spending many hours in the mountains, reaching the settlement provides a strong sense that Kumano Hongu Taisha is drawing closer. From Ukegawa, it is approximately 3 kilometers to Kumano Hongu Taisha, which can be covered on foot or by local bus.
For hikers who have completed the entire route, visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha at the end of the journey provides a particularly rewarding sense of accomplishment. It is easy to imagine the feelings of the pilgrims of the past as they finally emerged from the mountains and approached the sacred shrine.
Near Kumano Hongu are the Kumano Hongu Onsenkyo hot spring villages, including Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen, and Wataze Onsen. Relaxing in one of these traditional hot springs after a long day of hiking is an excellent way to recover and enjoy another aspect of the Kumano experience.
Kogumotori-goe is approximately 13 kilometers long, with a standard walking time of around four and a half hours. Including breaks and sightseeing, hikers should generally allow approximately five and a half hours or more.
Although the route is gentler than Ogumotori-goe, much of it remains a genuine mountain trail. The climb between Kowaze and Sakura Pass is particularly demanding, so visitors should plan according to their fitness and hiking experience.
There are very few restaurants, shops, or other facilities along the trail, and reliable water sources are limited. Hikers should therefore bring enough drinking water, lunch, snacks, and other supplies before starting the walk.
Good hiking shoes and rain gear are also recommended. Weather conditions can change quickly in the mountains, so checking the latest weather forecast and trail conditions before departure is essential.
Walking only Kogumotori-goe is a rewarding experience, but travelers who want to experience the complete historic Kumotori-goe crossing can combine it with Ogumotori-goe as a two-day journey.
On the first day, hikers can begin near Kumano Nachi Taisha, cross the demanding Ogumotori-goe, and stay overnight in Koguchi. On the second day, they can continue along Kogumotori-goe and eventually reach Kumano Hongu Taisha.
This itinerary provides an opportunity to experience the contrasting character of the two routes: the steep mountain terrain of Ogumotori-goe followed by the more moderate forest paths and ridgelines of Kogumotori-goe.
The Kumotori-goe routes developed alongside the religious traditions surrounding Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Hongu Taisha. Medieval ascetics and pilgrims traveled these mountains, and many other religious travelers followed the routes in later centuries.
Although the trails are now enjoyed by hikers from around the world, the footprints of those historic pilgrims remain an important part of the experience.
Kogumotori-goe was inscribed in 2004 as part of the UNESCO World Heritage property “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” The Kumano Kodo is more than a collection of mountain paths. For more than a thousand years, people have walked these routes as acts of pilgrimage, prayer, and spiritual practice.
The quiet trail surrounded by cedar and cypress trees, the remains of historic teahouses, stone Buddhist statues hidden in the forest, and the endless mountain panorama from Hyakken-gura all capture the unique character of the Kumano Kodo.
Kogumotori-goe offers a wonderful balance of mountain hiking, historic exploration, and immersion in the natural beauty of Kumano. While it is more manageable than Ogumotori-goe, it still requires proper preparation and a reasonable level of fitness.
Following the ancient trail through the forests of the Kii Peninsula, pausing at historic sites, and looking across the countless mountain ridges from Hyakken-gura allows visitors to experience a landscape shaped by centuries of pilgrimage. For international travelers seeking an authentic encounter with Japan’s spiritual heritage and mountain culture, Kogumotori-goe is an unforgettable section of the Kumano Kodo.