Kaisendo is a museum located in a quiet residential area of Kaminoyama, Yamagata Prefecture. The museum makes use of traditional storehouses and a residence built during the Taisho era (1912–1926), allowing visitors to appreciate Japanese and Chinese art and crafts in an atmosphere that retains the character of that period.
The museum houses a collection of approximately 4,000 works, centered on art and crafts collected as a personal hobby by Kenzo Hasegawa, who operated a silk-reeling business. The collection includes Japanese swords, Chinese lacquerware from the Ming and Qing dynasties, folk crafts, as well as photographs and film footage taken by Hasegawa from his teenage years.
The buildings themselves are also an important attraction. Visitors can explore the traditional wooden main house, earthen storehouses, and Japanese garden while experiencing the architecture and lifestyle of a Taisho-era merchant household. Kaisendo offers an opportunity to enjoy traditional Japanese culture through both its art collection and historic setting.
The buildings at Kaisendo were originally the residence of the Hasegawa family, who had moved from Kawanishi in the Okitama region of Yamagata to Kaminoyama. The historic residence has been preserved and opened to the public as a museum.
The main house at the center of the property is a two-story wooden building constructed during the Taisho era. It is based on the traditional design of a Japanese-style residence, with extensive use of katsura wood for the corridors and cedar for the pillars and fittings.
At the same time, the building incorporates more modern elements characteristic of the period, including glass doors along the surrounding corridors. The combination of traditional Japanese architecture and early modern design creates a bright, spacious atmosphere and provides an interesting glimpse into Taisho-era architecture.
To the north of the buildings lies an elegant Japanese garden. Trees and plants including pine, azaleas, and Japanese hackberry grow throughout the grounds, while grass carp swim in the pond.
The historic buildings and lush greenery form a harmonious setting where visitors can enjoy a peaceful atmosphere. The appearance of the garden changes with the seasons, making it worthwhile to take time to appreciate the landscape alongside the museum’s artworks.
The garden is also associated with an interesting literary story. When the renowned Japanese writer Masuji Ibuse visited Kaisendo, he is said to have been inspired by a carp in the garden pond that was approximately 60 years old.
This encounter reportedly inspired his short story “The Carp at Sixty.” Visitors can therefore enjoy not only the beauty of the garden but also reflect on the literary work that was inspired by this historic setting.
The Kaisendo collection centers on art and crafts collected by Kenzo Hasegawa, a businessman involved in the silk-reeling industry. The approximately 4,000 items in the collection include historically valuable works such as Japanese swords and Chinese lacquerware from the Ming and Qing dynasties.
The collection extends beyond fine and decorative arts. Photographs and film footage taken by Hasegawa from his youth, along with various folk crafts, provide glimpses into everyday life and culture from earlier periods.
Tsuishukan features a collection centered on Chinese lacquerware, particularly works from the Ming dynasty. Among the highlights is the “Lacquer Cabinet with Pavilion and Figures”, which is said to have been used by Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of Japan. The cabinet is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Tsuishu is a traditional lacquer technique in which layers of lacquer colored red with cinnabar or red ochre are built up to create a thick surface. Another technique, known as carved lacquer, involves carving intricate patterns into the thick layers of hardened lacquer.
The combination of multiple layers of lacquer and finely carved decoration creates a remarkable sense of depth and relief, demonstrating the ornate beauty and substantial character of traditional Chinese lacquer art.
The Tokenkan displays Japanese swords and related fittings, with a particular focus on traditional Japanese sword craftsmanship. Japanese swords are distinctive works of art and craftsmanship made by repeatedly forging iron refined from iron sand, using the controlled combination of metal and fire.
The gallery presents swords of various sizes dating from the Kamakura period through the end of the Edo period. Visitors can learn about the history and aesthetic qualities of Japanese swords while also examining the smaller fittings and accessories associated with them.
These accompanying objects offer additional insight into samurai culture and the sophisticated craftsmanship that developed around the Japanese sword.
Kaisendo carefully preserves not only valuable works of art and craft but also historic buildings that have cultural significance.
The “Lacquer Cabinet with Pavilion and Figures” was produced in the early Ming dynasty in China and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan. With its intricate decoration and sophisticated craftsmanship, it is one of the museum’s most notable works.
The Exhibition Hall, Former Hasegawa Residence Main House, Former Hasegawa Residence East Storehouse, and Former Hasegawa Residence South Storehouse are registered as Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan.
At Kaisendo, therefore, the buildings themselves are an important part of the cultural heritage. The museum allows visitors to appreciate the historic architecture in which these collections have been preserved and passed down through generations.
The main house stands at the center of the property and is a two-story wooden structure with a building area of approximately 274 square meters. It has an irimoya-style roof covered with slate, with the entrance projecting from the western side and the kitchen extending from the southern side.
Although based on traditional Japanese residential architecture, the building was designed with greater ceiling height and glass doors along the surrounding corridors. These features create a brighter and more open interior while preserving the character of a traditional Japanese house.
It is a valuable surviving example of a Taisho-era residence and offers visitors a glimpse into the architectural style and lifestyle of early twentieth-century Japan.
Construction period: Taisho era (1919–1926)
On the eastern side of the property stands the East Storehouse, which is connected to the main house by a corridor. This two-story earthen storehouse measures approximately 9.4 meters in length and 5.6 meters in width.
The building has a gabled roof with an entrance through the gable end and is covered with traditional roof tiles. The northern side contains the entrance to the exhibition room, while the western side includes a Japanese-style exhibition room.
The lower portion of the exterior walls features a distinctive washed-stone finish, while the southern side has an iron door. The substantial earthen structure adds a strong historic presence to the overall landscape of the property.
Construction period: Taisho era (1919–1926)
The South Storehouse on the southern side of the property is another two-story earthen building constructed during the Taisho era. It measures approximately 9.5 meters in length and 4.7 meters in width.
The building has a gabled roof with a raised metal-sheet roof structure. The northern side of the first floor has an entrance with a projecting roof, together with three additional openings.
The exterior walls are finished with white plaster, while the frames around the openings feature carefully applied decorative plasterwork. The eastern wall incorporates traditional horizontal wooden siding, giving the storehouse the restrained yet elegant appearance characteristic of historic Japanese kura warehouses.
Construction period: Taisho era (1919–1926)
Kaisendo offers much more than an opportunity to view valuable works of art. Its preserved Taisho-era residence, earthen storehouses, and Japanese garden form an important part of the experience.
Through its diverse collection of Japanese swords, Chinese lacquerware from the Ming and Qing dynasties, folk crafts, photographs, and film footage, visitors can discover different aspects of Japanese culture and history while exploring the historic buildings and garden.
Set in a quiet neighborhood of Kaminoyama, Kaisendo is a cultural destination where visitors can experience the atmosphere of the Taisho era alongside the traditional art of Japan and China. It is particularly appealing to travelers interested in Japanese history, architecture, traditional craftsmanship, and art.