Enmeiraku is one of Japan’s best-known varieties of edible chrysanthemum and is cultivated in Yamagata Prefecture as well as neighboring Niigata and Akita prefectures. Its vivid pinkish-purple petals are layered in multiple rows, forming rounded, tube-like flowers with an elegant appearance.
The variety is known by different names depending on the region. In Yamagata, it is commonly called “Mottenohoka” or “Motte-giku,” while in Niigata it is known by names such as “Omoi no Hoka” and “Kakinomoto.”
Unlike ornamental chrysanthemums, edible varieties are selected for their flavor, aroma, and texture. When prepared as food, they offer a distinctive floral fragrance and a pleasantly crisp, crunchy texture that makes them a unique ingredient in Japanese cuisine.
The unusual name “Mottenohoka” is said to have several possible origins.
One popular explanation is that eating chrysanthemums was considered “mottenohoka,” meaning “out of the question” or “unthinkable,” because the chrysanthemum is associated with the Imperial Family of Japan and appears on the Imperial crest. Another theory says the name comes from the phrase “mottenohoka umai,” meaning “unexpectedly delicious.”
The contrast between the flower’s refined appearance and its playful name is part of what makes Mottenohoka so memorable.
Edible chrysanthemums are chrysanthemums cultivated specifically for eating. In Japanese, they are commonly called shokuyogiku, or “edible chrysanthemum,” and may also be referred to as shokugiku or ryori-giku.
Different types are used in cooking. Some small-flowered varieties are eaten with the entire flower, while petals from larger varieties are generally used on their own. Compared with ornamental chrysanthemums, edible varieties are typically selected for their milder bitterness, pleasant aroma, and appealing texture.
There are many varieties and colors of edible chrysanthemum. In addition to Enmeiraku, which includes Mottenohoka and Motte-giku, the yellow-flowered Abokyu is another well-known variety.
Chrysanthemums have been valued for centuries, although their exact origins and history of use are described in several different traditions. In China, chrysanthemums have been appreciated since ancient times and have been used for such purposes as chrysanthemum tea and chrysanthemum wine.
Chrysanthemums are believed to have been introduced to Japan from China around the Nara period (710–794). A record from 927, dating to the Heian period, also mentions “kōkikka,” or yellow chrysanthemums.
In Japan, chrysanthemums were initially enjoyed mainly as ornamental flowers, but they eventually came to be used as food as well. Over time, edible chrysanthemums became incorporated into regional cuisines throughout the country. In Yamagata, dishes such as boiled chrysanthemum with seasonings, dressed chrysanthemum salads, and vinegared chrysanthemum have become part of the local culinary tradition.
Yamagata Prefecture is one of Japan’s important areas for edible chrysanthemum cultivation, with production particularly associated with places such as Sagae City.
Following Japan’s rice acreage-reduction policies in the 1970s, an increasing number of farmers converted some of their fields from rice cultivation to edible chrysanthemums. The crop subsequently developed into one of the region’s distinctive agricultural specialties.
The cool climate of the Tohoku region is well suited to growing edible chrysanthemums. In autumn, the flowers bloom in vivid colors, making them not only an ingredient on the dining table but also one of the agricultural products that symbolize autumn in Yamagata.
Two widely recognized types of edible chrysanthemum in Japan are Enmeiraku, including Mottenohoka and Motte-giku, and Abokyu. Because local names differ from one region to another, the same or similar edible chrysanthemums may be known by different names depending on where they are grown and eaten.
Benimotte is a type of Motte-giku known for its relatively mild bitterness and easy-to-eat flavor. Its vivid color also makes it an attractive accent when used in dishes.
Wase-motte is characterized by a crisp texture and a pleasantly mild bitterness. It is well suited to dishes where the distinctive aroma and refreshing texture of chrysanthemum are meant to stand out.
Hon-motte combines a crisp texture with a subtle sweetness. It works especially well in simple preparations such as ohitashi, lightly boiled vegetables seasoned with a dressing, and vinegared dishes, where the natural character of the flower can be appreciated.
Edible chrysanthemums are perennial herbaceous plants that generally grow to around 50–100 cm in height. Their stems branch readily, while their leaves have deeply divided edges. Many edible varieties produce double flowers, with colors ranging from yellow to reddish-purple depending on the variety.
During the late autumn cold, the underground stems enter a rosette-like state. When spring arrives, new shoots emerge and the stems begin to grow again. Farmers commonly propagate the plants through division or cuttings.
In Yamagata and other areas, edible chrysanthemums are mainly grown outdoors. After new shoots appear in spring, plants are divided or propagated from cuttings, then planted in their growing fields around early summer. The flowers bloom in autumn, when the edible petals are harvested.
Farmers carefully manage the plants throughout the growing season, paying attention to diseases and pests so that healthy chrysanthemums can be brought to the autumn table.
Mottenohoka is known for its vivid reddish-purple petals and distinctive fragrance. When eaten, the petals have a pleasant crunchy texture, followed by a subtle sweetness and the characteristic mild bitterness of chrysanthemum.
The flowers are also visually striking, so even a small amount can add beautiful color to a dish. As an ingredient that evokes the feeling of autumn, edible chrysanthemums are widely used in home cooking and traditional dishes throughout Yamagata.
A common way to prepare edible chrysanthemum is to briefly boil the petals and serve them as ohitashi, dressed vegetables, or vinegared dishes. They can also be used in salads, tempura, soups, and other preparations, allowing diners to experience different combinations of aroma and texture.
Adding a small amount of vinegar to the cooking water can help bring out the vivid color of the petals while also making their characteristic bitterness milder.
Edible chrysanthemum petals can also be boiled or steamed and then dried for preservation. Products prepared in this way include “Kiku Nori,” “Hoshi-giku,” and “Noshi-giku,” allowing the flavor of chrysanthemums to be enjoyed beyond their fresh autumn season.
Dried or prepared chrysanthemum can also be used as a colorful garnish for dishes such as sashimi and chirashi-zushi, adding both fragrance and visual appeal.
Edible chrysanthemums contain nutrients such as beta-carotene, vitamin C, B vitamins, and folate. They also provide various minerals, making them an ingredient valued not only for their beautiful color but also for their nutritional content.
Purple edible chrysanthemums are also known to contain compounds such as polyphenols. Research continues into their potential health effects, but edible chrysanthemums are best enjoyed simply as a seasonal vegetable and food ingredient incorporated into a varied diet.
Mottenohoka, also known as Enmeiraku or Motte-giku, is one of Yamagata’s signature edible chrysanthemums. Its beautiful flowers, distinctive fragrance, and crisp texture have made it a beloved ingredient in local and home cooking for generations.
Rather than simply admiring chrysanthemums as flowers, eating their petals offers a unique way to experience Japan’s seasonal food culture. If you visit Yamagata in autumn, be sure to look for dishes featuring Mottenohoka and discover one of the region’s most distinctive seasonal flavors.
October–November