Hamaoji Shrine is a historic shrine in Shingu City, Wakayama Prefecture, and is traditionally regarded as one of the Kumano Kujukyu Oji, or the “99 Oji Shrines,” located along the pilgrimage routes to Kumano.
The Oji shrines were sacred places where pilgrims traveling toward the major shrines of Kumano stopped to pray and rest. They played an important role in the religious culture of the Kumano pilgrimage, particularly during the Heian and medieval periods.
Today, Hamaoji stands quietly among a residential neighborhood. In earlier times, however, the shrine was surrounded by pine trees near the coast, with views toward the Kumano Sea. Local people continue to affectionately call it Oji Gongen, reflecting the shrine’s long-standing connection with the faith of the community.
The exact date when Hamaoji Shrine was founded is unknown, but its origins are believed to be extremely old.
According to local tradition, the shrine is connected with the legendary eastern expedition of Emperor Jimmu, the legendary first emperor of Japan. During the expedition, his fleet encountered a violent storm in the waters off Kumano.
At that time, two of Emperor Jimmu’s brothers, Inai-no-Mikoto and Mikeiri-no-Mikoto, are said to have thrown themselves into the sea in order to calm the sea deity and protect the voyage.
Hamaoji is traditionally believed to have originated as a place where these two figures were worshipped. From an early period, the shrine was therefore associated with protection from the sea and safe travel.
Its location facing the Kumano Sea also suggests a close relationship with the region’s maritime culture, including fishing and sea transportation.
Nearby, Ohamakaigan Beach offers expansive views of the Kumano Sea. Although much of the surrounding area is now residential, the coastline was once characterized by white sand and beautiful pine groves, creating a scenic setting for pilgrims arriving in Kumano.
From the Heian period through the Kamakura period, numerous Oji shrines were established along the pilgrimage routes leading to Kumano. These sacred sites provided pilgrims with places to pray, perform rituals, and rest during their long journeys.
During the imperial pilgrimages to Kumano, known as Kumano Goko, pilgrims often traveled from Kyoto toward the sacred region of Kumano. After visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha, they could travel down the Kumano River by boat toward Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu before continuing toward Kumano Nachi Taisha.
Several Oji shrines were located along the route between Shingu and Nachi, forming an important network of sacred stopping points.
Hamaoji is not explicitly named in the “Kumano Goko-ki”, a record of an imperial pilgrimage made in 1201. However, the document mentions that there were numerous Oji shrines along the route, suggesting that such sacred sites were already established in the area around this time.
The name Hamaoji appears explicitly in the “Kujukyu Oji-ki” of 1474, providing clear historical evidence of the shrine’s existence by the late medieval period.
The Edo-period geographical record “Kii Zoku Fudoki” also describes Hamaoji as a small shrine with a sanctuary and torii gate, further confirming its long history as a local place of worship.
Hamaoji appears to have held a relatively important position among the Oji shrines during the medieval period.
In 1322, Toshima Ukondayu Kagemura, a member of the Toshima clan who controlled territory in Toshima District of Musashi Province, in what is now the northern part of Tokyo, is said to have invited the spirit of Hamaoji to his own domain.
This tradition is considered one of the historical connections behind the origin of Oji Shrine in Tokyo. It provides an intriguing example of how the religious influence of Kumano extended far beyond the Kii Peninsula and reached the Kanto region.
For travelers interested in Japanese religious history, this connection illustrates the wide-reaching network created by Kumano pilgrimage and belief during the medieval period.
The area around Hamaoji was once a peaceful coastal landscape covered with pine trees. The shrine’s former grounds are said to have extended toward the area around present-day Ojigahama, creating a much more expansive sacred landscape than the small shrine seen today.
However, the landscape changed dramatically following the 1946 Nankai Earthquake, which caused severe damage throughout the region.
After the earthquake, the surrounding area faced a serious shortage of housing. Portions of former national land around the shrine were subsequently made available for residential development, and the neighborhood gradually became urbanized.
As a result, much of the former pine forest and coastal landscape disappeared. Hamaoji is now surrounded by houses, but the site still preserves a quiet connection with the history of Kumano pilgrimage and the ancient spiritual relationship between the local community and the sea.
During the Meiji period, Hamaoji was temporarily merged with Asuka Shrine. However, in 1926, it once again became an independent village shrine.
Local residents continue to call the shrine Oji Gongen and have carefully preserved its traditional role as a place of worship.
Although Hamaoji is a relatively small shrine today, its history brings together many layers of Japanese culture, including the legendary eastern expedition of Emperor Jimmu, ancient sea worship, medieval Kumano pilgrimage, and the Oji shrine system.
For visitors walking the historic routes of Shingu, a stop at Hamaoji provides an opportunity to experience a quieter side of Kumano’s spiritual heritage.
Hamaoji is surrounded by several important sites connected with the religious history of Kumano.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Asuka Shrine, and Kamikura Shrine are all located within Shingu and can be included in a wider historical sightseeing itinerary.
The nearby coastal areas, including Ohamakaigan Beach and Ojigahama, also provide opportunities to appreciate the broad scenery of the Kumano Sea.
At sunset, the view over the ocean can be particularly beautiful. Standing by the coast, it is easy to imagine why this area became associated with the worship of sea deities and the protection of travelers long ago.
Hamaoji Shrine offers a glimpse into the lesser-known layers of Kumano’s sacred landscape. Rather than being a large and imposing shrine, it is a modest local site whose importance lies in the history and traditions connected to it.
Its association with the Kumano Kujukyu Oji, the legendary story of Emperor Jimmu, the worship of sea deities, and the medieval spread of Kumano belief makes it a fascinating destination for travelers interested in Japanese history and spirituality.
Visiting Hamaoji together with the major shrines and historic sites of Shingu allows travelers to understand how the wider Kumano pilgrimage landscape was formed and how religious traditions were preserved by local communities over many centuries.
By train and bus: Hamaoji Shrine can be reached from JR Shingu Station. Visitors using a Kumano Kotsu bus can get off at the Ohamakaigan bus stop and continue on foot through the residential neighborhood.
Hamaoji is well suited to a historical walking tour of Shingu and can be combined with visits to Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Asuka Shrine, Kamikura Shrine, and the nearby coast.
A visit here offers a chance to experience the quieter atmosphere of a former pilgrimage site while reflecting on the long history of Kumano faith, pilgrimage, and coastal worship.