The Dewa Sanzan, meaning the “Three Mountains of Dewa,” is the collective name for Mount Gassan, Mount Haguro, and Mount Yudonosan, which extend across the Murayama and Shonai regions of Yamagata Prefecture. Revered as a sacred area of Japanese mountain worship since ancient times, the Dewa Sanzan remains an important pilgrimage destination where Yamabushi ascetics and worshippers continue to visit today.
Although each mountain has its own character and religious traditions, the three have developed a unique culture of worship as a single sacred complex. In traditional belief, Mount Gassan represents the past, Mount Haguro the present, and Mount Yudonosan the future. Each mountain is associated with its own shrine: Gassan Shrine, Dewa Shrine, and Yudonosan Shrine.
The Dewa Sanzan is also an important center of Shugendo, a Japanese tradition of mountain asceticism that developed through the interaction of Shinto, Buddhism, and ancient nature worship. Historic shrines, temples, cultural properties, and sacred natural landscapes remain throughout the mountains, making the Dewa Sanzan an exceptional place to experience Japan’s spiritual traditions and reverence for nature.
Mount Gassan rises to an elevation of 1,984 meters, making it the highest of the three mountains. It is located in central Yamagata, in the southern part of the Dewa Hills, and much of the mountain area is designated as a special protection zone within Bandai-Asahi National Park.
At the summit stands Gassan Shrine, which has long been revered as a sacred site of mountain worship centered on Shugendo. Gassan Shrine is recorded in the Engishiki Jinmyocho, an ancient tenth-century register of important Shinto shrines, and was later designated as a Kanpei Taisha, or Imperial Shrine of the highest rank, under the modern shrine ranking system of the Meiji period. It was the only shrine in the Tohoku region to receive this designation.
Mount Gassan is also known for its rich natural environment. In summer, hikers and pilgrims visit the mountain, while the abundant snow remaining from winter has made the area famous for summer skiing. The mountain presents a distinctive landscape that changes dramatically with the seasons.
Mount Haguro is a 414-meter-high mountain in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. It is relatively accessible compared with the other two mountains and is one of the best places to experience the living traditions of Dewa Sanzan mountain worship.
One of Mount Haguro’s most famous features is the 2,446-step stone staircase leading from Zuishinmon Gate at the foot of the mountain to the summit. Ancient cedar trees line the approach, creating a quiet path surrounded by dense forest.
Along the route are numerous historic and natural highlights, including the National Treasure Five-Story Pagoda of Mount Haguro, the Cedar Avenue of Mount Haguro, which is designated a Special Natural Monument of Japan, and Jijisugi, an enormous cedar designated as a Natural Monument.
At the summit stands Dewa Shrine. Its main sanctuary, the Sanjin Gosaiden, enshrines the deities of Mount Gassan, Mount Haguro, and Mount Yudonosan together. The shrine therefore occupies a particularly important place in the religious tradition of the Dewa Sanzan.
Mount Yudonosan rises to approximately 1,500 meters and forms the third mountain of the Dewa Sanzan together with Mount Gassan and Mount Haguro. Revered as a sacred mountain since ancient times, it remains an important center of Shugendo.
One of the most distinctive features of Mount Yudonosan is that the mountain itself is regarded as an object of worship. Yudonosan Shrine, located on the mountainside, does not have a conventional main sanctuary or worship hall. Instead, its unique tradition emphasizes the sacredness of nature itself.
The religious tradition of Yudonosan has historically been surrounded by a strong sense of secrecy, traditionally expressed through the idea that certain sacred matters should not be spoken about or even discussed with outsiders. Photography of the sacred object at Yudonosan Shrine is still prohibited, reflecting the shrine’s special status as a sacred area.
Visitors traditionally remove their shoes and receive a purification rite before approaching the sacred area. This creates a distinctive pilgrimage experience unlike that of most ordinary Japanese shrines.
The Dewa Sanzan has developed over many centuries as an important training ground for Shugendo. Shugendo is a uniquely Japanese religious tradition centered on rigorous ascetic practices in the mountains. Practitioners seek spiritual insight and a deeper connection with nature through physical and mental discipline.
Practitioners known as Yamabushi have traditionally entered the mountains to undertake a variety of demanding practices. Yamabushi continue to train today and remain one of the most visible symbols of the spiritual traditions of the Dewa Sanzan.
From summer into autumn, practitioners also undertake a demanding retreat known as Aki no Mine, or “Autumn Peak.” Participants remain in the mountains for an extended period and undertake various forms of ascetic training. This long-standing practice continues to preserve the spiritual culture of the Dewa Sanzan in the modern era.
A distinctive feature of Dewa Sanzan belief is the association of the three mountains with the past, present, and future.
Mount Gassan is traditionally associated with the past. Gassan Shrine at the summit enshrines Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, the moon deity of Japanese mythology. Religious traditions surrounding the mountain have also connected it with ancestral spirits and the world of the dead.
Mount Haguro represents the present. Its religious traditions have been closely connected with the happiness and everyday lives of people in this world. The presence of the Sanjin Gosaiden, where the deities of all three mountains are enshrined together, also demonstrates Mount Haguro’s central role within Dewa Sanzan worship.
Mount Yudonosan represents the future and has traditionally been associated with renewal and new life. Its mysterious sacred object and distinctive form of worship are among the most characteristic aspects of the religious culture of the Dewa Sanzan.
According to the traditions of Dewa Sanzan Shrine, the opening of the Dewa Sanzan is associated with Prince Hachiko, also known as Nojo Taishi, a son of Emperor Sushun.
According to legend, after Emperor Sushun was killed by the Soga clan, Prince Hachiko escaped to the province of Dewa. He is said to have been guided to Mount Haguro by a mysterious three-legged sacred crow. After undergoing severe ascetic practices, he is said to have received a divine revelation from Haguro Gongen. He then went on to open Mount Gassan and Mount Yudonosan and establish worship of the three mountain deities.
There are, however, several different traditions concerning the origins of Dewa Sanzan Shugendo. Various religious lineages, including the Haguro school, Tozan school, and Honzan school, were active in the region. Different temples and religious traditions preserved different accounts of the mountains’ founders, including traditions associating their origins with figures such as Kukai and En no Gyoja.
Gassan Shrine is recorded as a Myoshin Taisha, one of the most prestigious categories of shrines listed in the Engishiki Jinmyocho. Dewa Shrine is also traditionally identified with the ancient Ideha Shrine.
From an early period, the three mountains attracted practitioners of mountain asceticism and developed a culture of Shinbutsu-shugo, the historical combination of Shinto and Buddhism.
During the Kamakura period, warrior monks are known to have been associated with the mountains. From the Muromachi period onward, monks who had trained at the Dewa Sanzan traveled to other parts of Japan to study and practice Buddhism. During the Sengoku period, the mountains also attracted the devotion of regional figures such as Mogami Yoshiaki and his sister Yoshihime.
During the Edo period, worship of the Dewa Sanzan spread widely among ordinary people. Pilgrims traveled not only from the Tohoku region but also from the Kanto region and Niigata, and organized pilgrimages known as San-zan Mairi, or “Three Mountains Pilgrimage,” became increasingly popular.
People formed local pilgrimage associations known as kasu-ba and traveled together to the sacred mountains. As increasing numbers of pilgrims arrived, settlements along the pilgrimage routes and numerous shukubo, or religious lodgings, developed around the Dewa Sanzan.
During the Edo period, pilgrims could enter the Dewa Sanzan through numerous mountain routes. These were collectively known as “Seven Directions, Eight Entrances”, or Shichikata Hachiguchi.
The routes included Arasawa-guchi, Shimekake-guchi, Oami-guchi, Iwanezawa-guchi, Hijiori-guchi, Oisawa-guchi, Hondoji-guchi, and Kawashiro-guchi. Each entrance supported the pilgrimage culture of the three mountains.
Temples and shukubo developed along the routes to accommodate pilgrims. The roads were also used as transportation routes connecting the Murayama and Shonai regions, meaning that the pilgrimage network played an important role not only in religious life but also in regional transportation and distribution.
During the Edo period, the Dewa Sanzan flourished as a religious center where Shinto and Buddhism were practiced together. Mount Haguro and Mount Gassan had strong connections with the Tendai Buddhist tradition, while Mount Yudonosan was closely associated with Shingon Buddhism. Each mountain also had temples that served as administrative and religious centers.
At Mount Haguro, the Buddhist manifestation associated with Dewa Shrine was Shokanzeon Bosatsu, and the entire mountain complex was known as Jakkoji Temple. Mount Gassan had Nichigetsuji Temple, associated with Tendai Buddhism, while Mount Yudonosan had four major temples: Hondoji, Dainichibo, Churenji, and Dainichiji.
Major changes came during the Meiji period with the government’s policy of Shinbutsu Bunri, the formal separation of Shinto and Buddhism. Temples, Buddhist facilities, and religious objects throughout the Dewa Sanzan were affected.
At Mount Haguro in particular, many temples, Buddhist structures, and cultural objects were lost. Many of the former temple institutions were abolished, and the three mountains were reorganized around Shinto shrines.
However, a number of surviving buildings and religious sites still preserve important evidence of the earlier period when Shinto and Buddhism were practiced together.
One of the distinctive aspects of the religious culture surrounding the Dewa Sanzan is sokushinbutsu, or “Buddhas in the flesh.” This tradition was associated particularly with rigorous ascetic practices connected with the Yudonosan school of Shingon Buddhism.
Several temples in the Yudonosan area continue to enshrine sokushinbutsu. In particular, Dainichibo Temple and Churenji Temple are known for preserving these religious remains, which provide an important insight into the history of Yudonosan worship.
The Dewa Sanzan preserves numerous cultural properties that document its long history and religious traditions. Many important historic structures and natural monuments are concentrated around Mount Haguro.
The Haguro Five-Story Pagoda stands along the pilgrimage route through the cedar forest of Mount Haguro. It is one of the area’s most important historic structures and is designated a National Treasure of Japan.
The simple wooden structure standing quietly among the ancient trees has become one of the defining images of Mount Haguro. The pagoda is especially impressive when viewed together with the surrounding forest and historic pilgrimage path.
The Sanjin Gosaiden stands at the summit of Mount Haguro and enshrines the deities of Gassan Shrine, Dewa Shrine, and Yudonosan Shrine together.
The present structure was rebuilt following a fire during the Edo period. Its main sanctuary at the rear and worship hall at the front form a single large architectural complex. As a building symbolizing Dewa Sanzan worship, it is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Ancient cedar trees line the approach to Mount Haguro, having grown for centuries along the historic pilgrimage route. The Cedar Avenue of Mount Haguro is designated a Special Natural Monument of Japan.
The combination of the stone staircase and towering cedar forest creates one of the most atmospheric landscapes associated with the Dewa Sanzan. The approach is also home to Jijisugi, a huge cedar designated as a Natural Monument.
Other important sites include Koganedo Hall at Shozenin Temple on Mount Haguro, the Bell Tower of Mount Haguro, the former main hall of Nichigetsuji Temple at Iwanezawa, and the Nio Gate of Dainichibo Temple.
The Dewa Sanzan also preserves valuable works of art and historic objects, including copper lantern poles, bronze bells, and bronze mirrors excavated from the sacred pond at Mount Haguro. Natural monuments such as the Kasumizakura cherry tree of Minamidani, as well as folk traditions such as the Large Torch Ceremony of the Shorei Festival, also preserve the history and religious culture of the mountains.
On April 25, 2016, the Dewa Sanzan was recognized as part of the Japan Heritage program under the title “The Journey of Rebirth, Where Nature and Faith Live: The Dewa Sanzan Beginning with 2,446 Stone Steps Surrounded by Cedar Trees More Than 300 Years Old.”
The designation highlights the unique story created by the combination of nature, faith, Shugendo, history, and traditional culture that has been preserved around the Dewa Sanzan.
In particular, the cedar-lined approach and the 2,446 stone steps of Mount Haguro are recognized as a landscape that vividly represents the spiritual culture of the three sacred mountains.
The appeal of the Dewa Sanzan goes far beyond mountain sightseeing. Walking through the forests, visiting historic shrines and cultural properties, and following ancient pilgrimage routes provide opportunities to encounter the traditions of nature worship, Shugendo, and the historical relationship between Shinto and Buddhism.
Each season offers a different experience. Spring and early summer bring fresh green foliage and opportunities for hiking. In summer, the remaining snow on Mount Gassan creates conditions for summer skiing. Autumn brings colorful foliage, while winter transforms the mountains into a landscape covered in snow.
The surrounding area also offers hot springs, traditional religious lodgings, and regional cuisine, allowing visitors to experience the food, lifestyle, and culture of Yamagata alongside their journey through the sacred mountains.
The Dewa Sanzan remains an important religious landscape for local communities. For centuries, religious associations, festivals, pilgrimages, and ascetic practices have connected the mountains closely with local society.
Today, Yamabushi training and traditional ceremonies continue to be passed down through generations. Visiting the Dewa Sanzan therefore offers more than an opportunity to see famous landmarks and cultural properties; it can also provide a glimpse into the living traditions of Yamagata’s communities.
The relationship between people, mountains, and religious belief that developed over many centuries can still be seen in the landscapes, ceremonies, architecture, and everyday culture surrounding the Dewa Sanzan.
The Dewa Sanzan is a sacred mountain region where nature, faith, Shugendo, history, and culture have developed together around Mount Gassan, Mount Haguro, and Mount Yudonosan.
By visiting the three mountains, travelers can encounter the traditional idea that Mount Gassan represents the past, Mount Haguro the present, and Mount Yudonosan the future, as well as the spiritual concept of a “Journey of Rebirth” that has been passed down for generations.
The cedar-lined stone staircase of Mount Haguro, the shrines standing high in the mountains, the mysterious sacred area of Yudonosan, and the ascetic traditions maintained by Yamabushi all form part of a remarkable cultural landscape.
For visitors from outside Japan, the Dewa Sanzan offers a particularly valuable opportunity to experience a side of Japanese culture that goes beyond conventional sightseeing: a living spiritual tradition in which mountains, forests, pilgrimage, architecture, and local communities remain closely connected.
50 minutes by bus from Tsuruoka Station