Shojin Ryori, or traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, in the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa is a distinctive food culture deeply connected with Shugendo, a Japanese tradition of mountain asceticism. Passed down for generations by ascetics practicing in the mountains, this cuisine makes thoughtful use of wild mountain vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and other ingredients gathered from the rich natural surroundings of Mount Gassan, Mount Haguro, and Mount Yudono.
In addition to the principles of traditional Shojin Ryori, the cuisine of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa is said to have developed under the influence of the region’s mountain worship, the food culture of Haguro Shugendo, and culinary traditions from Kyoto.
Shugendo is a religious practice in which practitioners deepen their connection with nature through rigorous training in the mountains. Within Haguro Shugendo, eating has traditionally been regarded as more than simply a way to satisfy hunger or nourish the body. It has also been considered part of a spiritual practice that encourages harmony with the sacred forces and spirits believed to dwell in nature.
For this reason, Shojin Ryori of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa places great importance on respectfully enjoying the gifts of the mountains. The beech forests around the foothills of Mount Gassan provide an abundance of wild mountain vegetables, mushrooms, and other naturally occurring foods. A food culture based on making the most of these seasonal ingredients has developed alongside life in the mountains.
One of the defining characteristics of Shojin Ryori in the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa is its skillful use of wild mountain vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and other mountain ingredients. Wild vegetables often have distinctive bitterness or natural astringency, so they are carefully prepared according to the characteristics of each ingredient. This may include processes such as removing bitterness and other unwanted flavors before cooking.
This careful preparation is not simply intended to make the ingredients more delicious. It also reflects a traditional approach to food in which the gifts of nature are used thoughtfully and with as little waste as possible, allowing the natural flavors of each ingredient to shine.
At Saikan of Dewa Shrine, visitors can enjoy dishes made with local ingredients such as wild mountain vegetables and bamboo shoots. It is a special place where visitors can experience the region’s traditional food culture while surrounded by the sacred atmosphere of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa.
Saikan is also traditionally associated with Matsuo Basho, the famous Japanese haiku poet, who is said to have been entertained here. For visitors to the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa, it offers an opportunity to experience both the area’s history and its distinctive culinary traditions.
Tōge Shukubo Area is a historic settlement at the foot of Mount Haguro that has long welcomed pilgrims and supported those traveling into the mountains. The shukubo, or temple lodgings, traditionally provided pilgrims with accommodation and meals, while also serving as places where visitors could prepare themselves before entering the sacred mountains.
The Shojin Ryori served at these lodgings reflects culinary traditions that have been carefully passed down within individual families for generations. By staying at a shukubo associated with the traditions of the Haguro Yamabushi, mountain ascetics of Haguro Shugendo, visitors can experience the history, spiritual traditions, and everyday culture of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa through both the lodging and its food.
Meals served at shukubo often feature seasonal ingredients such as wild mountain vegetables and mushrooms. Although simple in appearance, these dishes highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients and reflect the traditional meals that have supported pilgrims and mountain practitioners for generations.
By actually tasting the food that has long sustained people visiting and training in the mountains, travelers can gain a more intimate understanding of the culture deeply rooted in the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa.
Shojin Ryori of the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa is a food culture shaped by the bounty of the mountains, Shugendo, and the everyday lives of local communities. The careful preparation of wild mountain vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and other ingredients reflects the knowledge and traditions that local people have passed down over many generations, together with a sense of gratitude for the gifts of nature.
When visiting the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa, consider experiencing Shojin Ryori at places such as Saikan or the Tōge Shukubo Area. Beyond the dishes themselves, the experience offers an opportunity to discover the mountain worship, history, and traditional way of life that lie behind this distinctive cuisine.