Dewa Shrine is located at the summit of Mount Haguro, a 414-meter-high sacred mountain in the Shonai region of Yamagata Prefecture. Mount Haguro is one of the three sacred mountains collectively known as the Dewa Sanzan, together with Mount Gassan and Mount Yudonosan.
The shrine enshrines Ideha-no-kami and Inakura-tama-no-mikoto and has a deep connection with the history of Shugendo, a Japanese tradition of mountain asceticism. Today, Dewa Shrine continues to attract visitors who come to experience Japan’s ancient mountain worship, sacred landscapes, and the historical tradition of combining Shinto and Buddhist beliefs.
Mount Gassan, Mount Haguro, and Mount Yudonosan are collectively called the Dewa Sanzan. Located in the Shonai region on the Sea of Japan side of Yamagata Prefecture, these mountains have been revered as sacred places since ancient times. Rather than simply worshipping deities associated with the mountains, traditional belief regarded the mountains themselves as sacred.
Each mountain is traditionally associated with a different stage of existence. Mount Gassan represents the past, Mount Haguro the present, and Mount Yudonosan the future. Each mountain is home to its own shrine: Gassan Shrine, Dewa Shrine, and Yudonosan Shrine.
Pilgrimage to all three mountains became popular among ordinary people during the Edo period. It came to be known as the “Journey of Rebirth”, a pilgrimage symbolizing a journey through the past, present, and future. Walking through the mountains and visiting the sacred sites offered people an opportunity to reflect on their lives and make a fresh start.
Among the Dewa Sanzan, Mount Haguro is particularly closely connected with everyday communities and has long developed as an important center of Shugendo.
Shugendo is a uniquely Japanese tradition of mountain spirituality that developed from ancient nature worship while incorporating influences from Buddhism, Esoteric Buddhism, and other religious traditions. At Mount Haguro, the natural environment itself was regarded as sacred, and ascetic practices in the mountains were used to cultivate both body and mind.
Even today, Yamabushi, mountain ascetics associated with Shugendo, continue their traditional practices on Mount Haguro, allowing visitors to encounter a living religious tradition with centuries of history.
The traditional pilgrimage to Mount Haguro begins at Zuishinmon Gate at the foot of the mountain. Beyond the gate lies the sacred area of the Dewa Sanzan. Visitors walk through a peaceful forest of towering cedar trees toward the summit.
The main approach is approximately 1.7 kilometers long and consists of 2,446 stone steps. The route passes through several sections, including Tsugomozaka, Ichinozaka, Ninozaka, and Sannozaka, before reaching the summit.
More than 400 enormous cedar trees, estimated to be between 350 and 500 years old, line the approach. This magnificent cedar avenue is known as the “Cedar Avenue of Mount Haguro” and has been designated a Special Natural Monument of Japan.
One of the most famous cultural treasures along the approach to Mount Haguro is the Haguro Five-Story Pagoda. Standing quietly among the cedar trees, the pagoda has become one of the most recognizable symbols of Mount Haguro.
The wooden pagoda is approximately 29 meters high and features a simple, unpainted timber construction with a traditional wooden-shingle roof. It has five stories and three bays. It was formerly known as the Five-Story Pagoda of Ryusui-ji Temple, and the present structure is believed to have been rebuilt approximately 600 years ago.
Designated a National Treasure of Japan, the pagoda is particularly admired for the understated beauty of its natural wood and its harmonious setting among the ancient cedars.
The pagoda is only about a 10-minute walk from Zuishinmon Gate, making it an accessible highlight even for visitors who do not wish to climb all the way to the summit.
Near the Five-Story Pagoda stands Jijisugi, or the “Old Man Cedar,” one of the most impressive ancient trees on Mount Haguro. Having survived for many centuries, this enormous cedar conveys the sacred atmosphere of the mountain and forms a striking pair with the nearby pagoda.
After passing through Zuishinmon Gate, the path descends along Tsugomozaka to a sacred bridge crossing the Haraigawa River. Pilgrims traveling toward the Dewa Sanzan traditionally purified themselves here before continuing into the mountains.
A beautiful gorge surrounds the bridge, while Suga Waterfall flows down the cliff on the opposite side. The combination of the forest-covered valley, red-painted bridge, and cascading waterfall creates one of the most memorable landscapes along Mount Haguro’s main approach.
Tohge, the settlement at the foot of Mount Haguro, has welcomed pilgrims and ascetics for centuries. During the Edo period, numerous shukubo, or temple lodgings, lined the area and provided accommodation and guidance for pilgrims traveling into the mountains.
Today, traditional lodgings with distinctive gates and sacred ropes can still be found in the area. They provide an opportunity to experience the religious culture of Mount Haguro beyond the main pilgrimage route.
Some shukubo also serve traditional shojin ryori, or Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, allowing visitors to combine their pilgrimage with a taste of local culinary culture.
After climbing the 2,446 stone steps, visitors reach the summit of Mount Haguro, where the magnificent Sanjin Gosaiden stands as the symbolic heart of Dewa Shrine.
The Sanjin Gosaiden is a unique shrine building in which the deities of Mount Gassan, Mount Haguro, and Mount Yudonosan are enshrined together. Because Mount Gassan and Mount Yudonosan can be difficult to visit during the winter, important annual ceremonies associated with all three mountains have traditionally been held at this combined sanctuary on Mount Haguro.
The present building was completed in 1818, during the first year of the Bunsei era. It measures approximately 28 meters high, with a frontage of about 24.2 meters and a depth of approximately 17 meters. The structure is primarily made of cedar, while the interior features vivid vermilion coloring. Its enormous thatched roof is approximately 2.1 meters thick.
Because of its distinctive construction and historical importance, the Sanjin Gosaiden has been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
Unlike many conventional Shinto shrine buildings, the Sanjin Gosaiden incorporates both the worship hall and main sanctuary within a single structure. Because it enshrines the deities of all three sacred mountains together, this distinctive architectural style is known as “Gosaiden-style” construction.
The interior contains intricate decorative carvings. Among the highlights are carvings depicting the Twenty-Four Paragons of Filial Piety on the main sanctuary’s horizontal transom. The calligraphy on the shrine’s large plaque is traditionally attributed to Soejima Taneomi, a prominent figure of the late Edo and early Meiji periods.
In front of the Sanjin Gosaiden lies Kagami Pond, or the “Mirror Pond,” a sacred body of water that has been revered for centuries. The oval-shaped pond measures approximately 38 meters from east to west and 28 meters from north to south, and its water level is said to change relatively little throughout the year.
The pond originally served as a purification pond for the main sanctuary and was regarded as sacred under the name “Spirit of the Pond.” Numerous bronze mirrors have been discovered in the pond. These archaeological finds and the history of worship surrounding the site are believed to have contributed to its name, Kagami Pond.
On the eastern side of Kagami Pond stands the Bell Tower, a traditional structure with a gabled, thatched roof. It is regarded as one of the oldest surviving buildings on Mount Haguro after the National Treasure Five-Story Pagoda.
The large bell housed in the tower bears an inscription referring to the first year of the Kenji era. It is notable for its exceptionally large size among ancient Japanese bells. Designs including clouds and celestial figures were cast onto its surface, giving it considerable historical and artistic value.
The bell tower and great bell are important reminders of Mount Haguro’s long history and the tradition of Shinbutsu-shugo, the historical blending of Shinto and Buddhism in Japan.
An important figure in the religious history of Mount Haguro is Prince Hachiko, traditionally regarded as the founder of the Dewa Sanzan tradition.
According to tradition, Prince Hachiko opened Mount Haguro in ancient times. He is also said to have introduced seeds of grain and passed on knowledge related to agriculture, industry, and medicine, leaving numerous benefits to the local people. For these achievements, he is also known as Nojo Taishi.
Hachiko Shrine, located at the summit of Mount Haguro, enshrines Prince Hachiko and remains an important site within the religious tradition of the Dewa Sanzan.
Toshosha Shrine was established during the Edo period to enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu as Tosho Gongen. It is one of the historical sites that demonstrates how the religious history of Mount Haguro was connected not only with Shinto, but also with Buddhism, Shugendo, and the political and religious culture of the Edo period.
Following the Meiji government’s separation of Shinto and Buddhism, the shrine was renamed from Tosho-gu to Toshosha. The present building was dismantled and reconstructed in 1980.
Senbutsudo houses numerous Buddhist statues and ritual objects associated with the religious history of Mount Haguro. Until the Meiji period, the Dewa Sanzan was an important center of Shinbutsu-shugo and Buddhist Shugendo, and Mount Haguro was known as Haguro-san Jakkoji Temple.
During the Meiji government’s separation of Shinto and Buddhism, many Buddhist statues and ritual objects were removed from the mountain. However, some were preserved for generations by devoted local supporters.
The present Senbutsudo, completed in 2017, houses Buddhist objects that convey this history. The facility also serves as a connection between the Sanshuden assembly hall and the Reisaiden memorial hall.
The Dewa Sanzan has long been regarded not only as a place of mountain worship but also as a sacred realm where the spirits of ancestors reside. At Mount Haguro, traditions for commemorating and honoring ancestral spirits continue today.
Reisaiden is an important facility associated with this ancestral tradition. Memorial monuments and commemorative stones can also be found nearby, providing a glimpse into the continuing role of Mount Haguro in local religious life.
In addition to the main Dewa Shrine, numerous smaller shrines are scattered throughout Mount Haguro. Across the Dewa Sanzan, so many subsidiary shrines are traditionally said to exist that they are collectively referred to as the “101 Sub-Shrines.” Each has its own history and religious significance.
At the summit of Mount Haguro, visitors can encounter shrines including Oikazuchi Shrine, Takekazuchi Shrine, Inari Shrine, Oyama-zumi Shrine, Hakusan Shrine, Omikane Shrine, and Yasaka Shrine.
Takekazuchi Shrine was formerly known as Gyojado and is traditionally associated with En no Gyoja, an important figure in Japanese mountain asceticism. The shrine is associated with prayers for healthy legs and strong walking ability, and the custom of offering traditional wooden clogs is also remembered here.
Tenyu Shrine enshrines Tenyu Hoin, who served as the 50th chief administrator of Mount Haguro. The shrine provides an interesting insight into the religious history of the mountain and the individuals who played important roles in its development.
Zuishinmon Gate stands at the entrance to Mount Haguro’s main approach and has traditionally served as a boundary between the ordinary world and the sacred mountain.
The gate was originally built as a Nio-mon, or gate guarded by Buddhist guardian figures. Following the Meiji-era separation of Shinto and Buddhism, the Nio statues were replaced by Zuishin, guardian figures associated with Shinto, and the gate came to be known as Zuishinmon.
Passing through the gate means entering a sacred mountain path surrounded by towering cedar trees and stone steps. The journey from the gate to the summit is itself an important part of the pilgrimage experience, allowing visitors to experience Mount Haguro through movement, nature, and contemplation.
The pilgrimage to the Dewa Sanzan became widely known during the Edo period as the “Journey of Rebirth.”
Mount Haguro represents the present, Mount Gassan the past, and Mount Yudonosan the future. Traveling through the three mountains was therefore understood as a symbolic journey through past, present, and future, offering an opportunity for spiritual renewal.
From the traditional settlement at the foot of the mountain, pilgrims pass through Zuishinmon and climb the long stone staircase toward the summit. This is more than a sightseeing route; it is a historic path of religious pilgrimage that has been followed for centuries.
Walking beneath the towering cedar trees and through the quiet mountain landscape allows visitors to experience the distinctive atmosphere and powerful natural presence of Mount Haguro.
One of the practices most closely associated with the Shugendo tradition of Mount Haguro is “Autumn Peak Entry”.
During this demanding practice, Yamabushi enter the mountains and undertake a series of rigorous ascetic disciplines. The practice is traditionally associated with the idea of “symbolic death and rebirth,” in which practitioners metaphorically leave behind their former selves and return with renewed life.
Wearing white robes, the Yamabushi travel through the mountains and perform various ascetic practices designed to purify the body and mind. This tradition continues to convey the spiritual ideals of Haguro Shugendo.
Today, two forms of Autumn Peak Entry are conducted on Mount Haguro: one organized by Dewa Sanzan Shrine incorporating Shinto practices that developed after the Meiji period, and another conducted by the Haguro Shugendo Honshu, which preserves elements of the older tradition of combined Shinto-Buddhist mountain practice.
The appeal of Dewa Shrine and Mount Haguro lies not only in their historic buildings and cultural treasures. The natural environment itself—the centuries-old cedar forest, valleys, waterfalls, and enormous trees—has long formed the setting for religious practice.
Walking the 2,446 stone steps from Zuishinmon, passing the Five-Story Pagoda and Jijisugi, and continuing to the summit allows visitors to experience a pilgrimage route that has been followed for generations.
At the summit, visitors can explore the Sanjin Gosaiden and Kagami Pond while learning about the history and spiritual traditions of the Dewa Sanzan. In Tohge, traditional shukubo remain, and visitors may also have opportunities to experience local customs such as shojin ryori.
With its combination of nature, architecture, history, religion, and traditional culture, Mount Haguro is one of Yamagata Prefecture’s important destinations for cultural tourism.
Zuishinmon Gate
Mount Haguro Stone Steps
Cedar Avenue of Mount Haguro
Jijisugi Cedar
Haguro Five-Story Pagoda
Haraigawa River and Suga Waterfall
Minamidani Valley of Mount Haguro
Haguro Saikan
Mount Haguro Sanjin Gosaiden
Hachiko Shrine
Haguro Shozenin and Koganedo Hall
Traditional Shukubo Lodgings of Tohge
Large Torch Procession of the Shorei Festival
Dewa Sanzan Shojin Ryori
Haguro Mountain Peak Entry
Haguro Old Pilgrimage Trail
Former Kiyokawa Barrier Station
The main pilgrimage route takes approximately 90 minutes on foot from Zuishinmon Gate to the summit. Because the route includes 2,446 stone steps, comfortable walking shoes and suitable clothing are recommended.
The summit can also be reached by car using the road that approaches Mount Haguro from the rear of the mountain. Visitors can therefore choose between walking the historic stone-step pilgrimage route and traveling to the summit by road according to their available time and physical condition.
Visitors primarily interested in the Five-Story Pagoda can reach it in approximately 10 minutes on foot from Zuishinmon Gate. It is therefore possible to enjoy the ancient cedar forest and pagoda without climbing all the way to the summit.
Dewa Shrine is one of the important centers of Dewa Sanzan worship in Yamagata Prefecture. The mountain preserves numerous historic buildings and cultural treasures, including the National Treasure Five-Story Pagoda and the Important Cultural Property Sanjin Gosaiden.
The approach itself is an extraordinary attraction, with 2,446 stone steps winding through a forest of centuries-old cedar trees. The journey provides a chance to appreciate both the architecture and the natural landscape that have shaped Mount Haguro’s religious identity.
For international visitors, Mount Haguro also offers an opportunity to learn about several distinctive aspects of Japanese culture at the same time: mountain worship, Shugendo, the historical blending of Shinto and Buddhism, pilgrimage traditions, and the “Journey of Rebirth.”
Rather than simply visiting a shrine, travelers can experience a historic sacred landscape in which the mountain, forest, architecture, rituals, and local communities have been closely connected for centuries. This combination makes Dewa Shrine and Mount Haguro a particularly distinctive cultural destination in Yamagata.
50 min. by bus from Tsuruoka Station → 5 min. on foot from the top of Mt. Haguro