Dongoe is a traditional wild plant that has long been eaten in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. It is also known by several names in different parts of Japan, including Itadori, Dongoi, and Donguri.
Dongoe has a distinctive crisp, crunchy texture and a pleasantly tart flavor. Rather than being the main ingredient of a dish, it is often enjoyed as a flavorful supporting ingredient that adds an appealing contrast to other foods.
In Tsuruoka, a traditional method of preserving Dongoe by pickling it in salt has been passed down through generations. Before eating, the salted Dongoe is soaked in plenty of water to remove the excess salt and then prepared in a variety of dishes.
After salting, the surface of Dongoe takes on a caramel-like brown color. Interestingly, when it is stir-fried, it returns to a vivid green color. Processing it as a preserved food allowed people to enjoy the ingredient beyond its short harvest season.
Stir-frying is an excellent way to bring out Dongoe’s characteristic texture and tartness. The key is to cook it quickly over relatively high heat without overcooking. Excessive cooking can cause the crisp texture to disappear.
By stir-frying Dongoe just long enough to retain its crunchy bite, you can enjoy its distinctive flavor and texture. Although simple and rustic, it makes a delicious accompaniment to a bowl of rice.
Dongoe also has a special connection with the history of school lunches in Tsuruoka. Tsuruoka City is known as the birthplace of school lunches in Japan, and Dongoe is said to have been included among the foods served in school lunches during the early days of the program.
Today, on December 24, School Lunch Memorial Day, a menu recreating an early school lunch is still served. Items such as rice balls, salted fish, and stir-fried Dongoe are included, helping pass on both the region’s food culture and the history of school lunches to younger generations.
Dongoe is generally in season from around April through June. It is a traditional ingredient unique to Tsuruoka that can be enjoyed as a gift from the mountains from spring through early summer.
When visiting Tsuruoka, be sure to try dishes made with Dongoe and experience its distinctive crisp texture and refreshing tartness, as well as the traditional food wisdom that has been passed down in the region.
Itadori, Dongoi, Donguri
April, May, and June