Hamo nabe is a traditional hot pot dish from the Senshu area of southern Osaka. Hamo, or pike conger, has lived in Osaka Bay since ancient times and has been traded in Osaka since the medieval period.
In Osaka and Kyoto, hamo has long been an essential ingredient for summer festivals and is widely known as a seasonal summer fish. However, autumn hamo, which becomes rich and flavorful after spawning, is also highly prized.
Hamo has an unusually large number of fine bones, making special preparation essential. The fish is carefully cut with numerous fine incisions while leaving the skin intact. This technique, known as honekiri, or “bone cutting,” makes the fish easier to eat while preserving its delicate texture.
The Senshu region faces Osaka Bay and has long benefited from an abundance of seafood. Hamo has been a familiar local ingredient for generations, and hamo nabe has traditionally been enjoyed throughout the area.
One distinctive Senshu-style preparation uses a broth made from the head and bones of the hamo, combined with onions and potatoes. Senshu is regarded as the birthplace of onion cultivation in Japan, and the natural sweetness of locally grown Senshu onions spreads through the broth, creating an excellent match with the delicate flavor of hamo.
Hamo is considered to be in season from June to August, before spawning, and again from October to November, after spawning.
Hamo is less commonly seen in the Kanto region, but in Osaka, pre-prepared hamo that has already undergone honekiri can be purchased at supermarkets. This makes it possible to enjoy hamo nabe easily at home as well as at restaurants.
To prepare hamo nabe, a broth is first made from kombu kelp, hamo bones, and the hamo head. Sake, mirin, soy sauce, and other seasonings are then added.
Onions, potatoes, shiitake mushrooms, and other preferred ingredients are simmered in the broth. The choice of vegetables can vary, but onions are considered essential to this Senshu-style dish.
Once the vegetables have softened, bite-sized pieces of hamo that have been carefully prepared using the honekiri technique are added. The hamo is cooked until just done, allowing its delicate flavor to blend with the rich broth and sweet Senshu onions.